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North Face & Northwest Corner
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Psychic Turbulance T 
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Leaping Lizards 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1985 by Carl Coy and Mark Jacobs
Page Views: 676
Submitted By: John Gunnels on Apr 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

This route was done originally on aid by Frank Sanders and Dale Chamberlain.

P1: One of my favorite Tower pitches. Thin stemming provides the pump... and be sure your eyes are open wide for good placements. The anchors are out left after about 125 feet.

P2: Very thin crack climbing and a bit of route finding create the crux of the route. Watch for the "hidden hold" at mid pitch.

Protection 

RP's, Full set of Stoppers, BD Camalots to #3 and a few shoulder length slings.


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By Alex A
Apr 7, 2009

One of my favorites, thin fingers and stemming, good pro but small wires,
By 303scott
Sep 3, 2012

I think this route is pg-13 or R rated- 20 feet of dihedral stemming with no pro, with a fall landing you on the slabby terrain below.