Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Screamweaver Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Planet T,S 
Boldfingers T 
Chicken Head City T 
Coldfingers T 
Finishing School Blues T,S 
Free for All S 
Friday the 13th T,S 
Golden Blend S 
Leapin' Lizards T 
Pumping In Rhythm T 
Screamweaver T 
Southern Boys Don't Wear Plaid T 
unknown T 
Zydygo T 
Unsorted Routes:

Leapin' Lizards 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Season: Winter
Page Views: 451
Submitted By: Javier L on Jan 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Channel the inner lizard...

The Access Fund has a grassroots network of 95 local climbing organizations & 46 regional coordinators to ensure qualified advocates are there to help in your backyard. Join or give and MP will match!

Description 

Start on the right side of the buttress. Head up and slightly right through an awkward powerful section that gains a good stance. Cross back left and run it out on easy ground toward a horizontal under the first small roof and a bolt above. Stretch for the bolt to protect the first crux, pull it, then run it out again on good edges (5.9 ground) to a much needed placement. Climb to the 2 stacked fixed pins where you can get it all back on jugs. Make a long move and difficult clip of the last bolt on your way through the roof. Head up on good edges and plug another piece on a horizontal well above the bolt. Keep it together as you run it out one more time through tricky edges and crimps as you mantle to the 2 bolt anchor.

Caution, run outs lead to big whips, potential ground falls and sore ankles. On the date of submission there was a large loose rock under the first roof.

From the first bolt a right variation skips the initial crux through an anemic flake system.

Location 

Right of Chicken Head City. Go up onto a separate ledge in front of the orange wall. Rappel or hike out.

Protection 

small and medium cams. 2 bolts and a pair of fixed pins. 2 bolt anchor.


Comments on Leapin' Lizards Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!