Leapin' Lizards  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Doug Reed Season:  Winter Submitted By:  Javier L on Jan 6, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Channel the inner lizard...

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start on the right side of the buttress. Head up and slightly right through an awkward powerful section that gains a good stance. Cross back left and run it out on easy ground toward a horizontal under the first small roof and a bolt above. Stretch for the bolt to protect the first crux, pull it, then run it out again on good edges (5.9 ground) to a much needed placement. Climb to the 2 stacked fixed pins where you can get it all back on jugs. Make a long move and difficult clip of the last bolt on your way through the roof. Head up on good edges and plug another piece on a horizontal well above the bolt. Keep it together as you run it out one more time through tricky edges and crimps as you mantle to the 2 bolt anchor.

Caution, run outs lead to big whips, potential ground falls and sore ankles. On the date of submission there was a large loose rock under the first roof.

From the first bolt a right variation skips the initial crux through an anemic flake system.

Location 

Right of Chicken Head City. Go up onto a separate ledge in front of the orange wall. Rappel or hike out.

Protection 

small and medium cams. 2 bolts and a pair of fixed pins. 2 bolt anchor.