Leap Year Flake 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 2/88 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: Leap Year Flake
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Description This fun and somewhat unique climb is located on the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall more or less directly below the prominent, overhanging corner of Pat Adams Dihedral.
Climb a thin crack with face holds for about forty feet, then step left and undercling/lieback a thin flake that curves up and left ending on a large ledge beneath the previously mentioned corner.
Expect fun climbing on high quality rock in a relatively uncrowded area, as this side of the Dairy Queen Wall sees little action. Well worth doing as along with a number of the other routes here. Two stars out of five.
Protection pro to 2", including wires
BETA PHOTO: Leap Year Flake
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BETA PHOTO: Close up
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Leap Year Flake
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| Comments on Leap Year Flake |
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By Dynomight510
From: San Diego
Sep 22, 2003
rating: 5.7
| The pro overall is great however there is one section a bit before you reach the flake that is thin. I used a #3 Camp Ball nutz because a tri cam would not fit. The grade is not beyond 5.7 though.
Shot and sweet. Good moves. Good rock.
Not sustained. |
By tony grice
May 2, 2006
| WOW!!! as fun as 5.7 gets. bring plenty in the .5 size , and a few small wires, if 5.7 is your max. Well protected |
By seamstress
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.7
| The comment "somewhat unique climb" almost scared me off, but it was a sweet little climb. It felt more like a Tuolumne or Tahoe route than JT - smearing & stemming; crack technique not really needed. The flake sounds a bit hollow so check carefully before you place your gear. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 5, 2008
| An alternate (and harder) start to this route is to climb Leap Erickson to it's 4th bolt and then cut right on the sloping ledge to reach the base of the flake system. Extending the 1st placement or two will cut down on any rope drag you might otherwise encounter. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 7, 2008
rating: 5.7
| Agree with Tony Grice on pro. A really great finish up the flake, something to savor. I'd say it's one of the must do 5.7's in The Park. |
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 16, 2011
| Finish with Double Delight or Tofutti for a great two pitch route. Double Delight ends with a bolted rappel anchor. |
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