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The Highlands aka Highlander
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Leap of Faith 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 1,532
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 14, 2001
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Sean onsighting Leap of Faith...

Description 

Perhaps the best line on the West half of Highlander, Leap of Faith starts up the slab about 20 ft right of Tarzan firing off the main roof and a small overlap just below the anchor. This route is really deceptive and just gets more difficult the higher you climb. 5.9, 5.10, 5.12a moves deceive one into believing that the line is finished until you are just about looking at the anchor. Clip the last bolt off very fine finger edges, then, just five feet from the anchor, make a delicate, tricky reach to a seam on the right followed by a big move to a jug and the anchor. It all feels so unfair, like breaking a leg moments before crossing the finish-line at the Boston Marathon. Leap of Faith is an excellent route that deserves more traffic.


Protection 

Bring 8 QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 15, 2001

Who has done this route recently? My partner broke a glued on hold at the very top in spring of 2001. The hold was large. It looked about three feet by three feet, but I did not get a good chance to take a good look at it since I was busy getting out of its way, and my partner did not know it was coming down so he did not see it. Lucky for me, the rock hit in front of me, shattered, and only glanced off of my arm. If it beaned me in the head, me and my partner would not be here today. Has this route gone since? It is probably harder now since the foot hold for the leap of faith broke. I believe that this is another reason to stop glueing, since glue is temperary. Elijah Flenner

By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2008

I wasn't able to find the right body position to dyno from the sidepull to the top, but I found that I could get to the top static utilizing a sharp one finger crimp for the right hand, above the last bolt.

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Dec 7, 2008
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Yeah, there really is no literal dyno anymore since the hold broke, the new beta is a tricky deadpoint.

By Andrew Tower
From: Golden, CO
Dec 10, 2008
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Feel the sugar cube love.

By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Mar 13, 2013

It seemed like a big right hand bump from and to sidepulls or a lock off on the one finger crimp (that Joshua mentions) with the left hand? Thoughts anyone? Either way it felt unpleasant IMO. The rock is still crumbling in places on this one.