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 ADVANCED
Zappa Wall
Routes Sorted
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Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) 
Beside the Pillar 
Big Hands Roof 
Blood Pulse 
Calcite Fingers 
Curve, The 
Dirty Red Cam Corner 
Far Right Corner 
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) 
Fork It (HVS) 
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The 
Green Cam Lie Back 
Hands to OW 
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) 
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) 
Leaning Corner (aka Moderation) 
Left Leaner 
Mr. Sheeley 
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) 
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) 
OW Corner 
Point 5 roof 
Short Corner 
Short Dihedral 
Short, Some Hands 
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) 
Zig-Zag 

Leaning Corner (aka Moderation) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: n/a
Page Views: 2,222
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Garrett Gillest on Moderation 5.8 @ age 5.

Description 

The crux for most may be the beginning section where it can be awkward. After getting into the acute corner, it gets more secure. This is a good climb of decent length and varied sizes.


Location 

This route is vaguely shown in the supplied picture. Scurry to up up canyon side of a small valley where there are three climbs. This is the leftmost of the three.


Protection 

Doubles in #0.5 and #0.75. Singles or doubles up to #2 Camalot.



Photos of Leaning Corner (aka Moderation) Slideshow Add Photo
Left hand side.
Left hand side.
Looking down Moderation, Mike Keegan belaying.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down Moderation, Mike Keegan belaying.
At the crux.
At the crux.
Comments on Leaning Corner (aka Moderation) Add Comment
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By Jeremy Werlin
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Gear beta for desert chickens like me: 1 - #0.4 Camalot, 3 - #0.5, 3 - #0.75, 1 - #1, 1 - #2, 1 - #3.