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 ADVANCED
Zappa Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T 
Beside the Pillar T 
Big Hands Roof aka Zombie Woof T 
Blood Pulse T 
Calcite Fingers T 
Curve, The T 
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 
Far Right Corner T 
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 
Fork It (HVS) T 
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 
Green Cam Lie Back T 
Hands to OW T 
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Left Leaner T 
Mr. Sheeley T 
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 
OW Corner T 
Point 5 roof T 
Short Dihedral T 
Short, Some Hands T 
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 
Zig-Zag T 

Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Henritze and Greg Phillips
Page Views: 3,008
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Garrett Gillest on Moderation 5.8 @ age 5.

Description 

The crux for most may be the beginning section where it can be awkward. After getting into the acute corner, it gets more secure. This is a good climb of decent length and varied sizes.

Location 

This route is vaguely shown in the supplied picture. Scurry to up up canyon side of a small valley where there are three climbs. This is the leftmost of the three.

Protection 

Doubles in #0.5 and #0.75. Singles or doubles up to #2 Camalot.


Photos of Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) Slideshow Add Photo
Left hand side.
Left hand side.
Looking down Moderation, Mike Keegan belaying.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down Moderation, Mike Keegan belaying.
At the crux.
At the crux.

Comments on Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) Add Comment
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By Jeremy Werlin
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Gear beta for desert chickens like me: 1 - #0.4 Camalot, 3 - #0.5, 3 - #0.75, 1 - #1, 1 - #2, 1 - #3.
By Shep
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Oct 20, 2014

Must do for the grade. A lot of desert 5.8s in places like this are chossy and lame, but this is fabulous for the grade!
By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Ridgway, CO
May 18, 2015

Originally named Muffin Man. FA by Dave Henritze and Greg Phillips.
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