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Leaners Permit 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Scott McNamara
Page Views: 473
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Jun 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Classic rope & rock photo.

Description 

This route is only for those seeking a meaningless death on a poorly bolted, crumb cake of a climb. The first of the randomly placed bolts is 15 feet off the ground, above a ledge, and awkward. 20 more feet of climbing on eroding rock leads to the second bolt.

Note "Squeezing the Lemmon II" (2000, EFR) lists this climb as 5.10 with no safety caveats. The above is merely my flamebait of an opinion. I believe this route should be rebolted or removed.

Location 

Look for the only bolted line on the furthest North (down highway) Canine. The route climbs the less steep East face.

Protection 

4 Bolts & Chains


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 8, 2009

Hey Hendrixson, sorry we left those hangers on. The climb really did suck and we were tired after leading it ground up, and so we just walked away. I might be a little sensitive but I must point out since to me you imply that SQ 11 (2000 EFR) didn't warn you about the danger. You will notice there was not a single star on it. It also said in the description that the only reason to climb it is "if you want to see if the tower will stay up". Good to post it up as the heap it is. Mind your stars next time. Ha Ha
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 8, 2009

No worries, Eric. I was the one who decided to get on the route and I was the one who kept climbing in spite of the risk. I just wanted to share my opinion and hear the thoughts of others.

By the way, I mentioned SQII not to criticize but because I view it is a more definitive source. In general I try to post the FAs rating when posting routes on MP.
By jbak
Apr 3, 2011

Yeah... well... I didn't quite HATE the route, but I was scratching my head about the bolt placement (something Brick normally does an excellent job of), and about the guidebook description as "B,C"... implying that it is a sport climb. I put in 2 stoppers to supplement the bolts and still felt like I was free soloing part of the time.

With cleaning and a couple more bolts, it could be a half-star route. EFR, if I do it again, do you mind if I add/move a couple of bolts ?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 4, 2011

Have at it John. Put this route in ground up to get to the top which is why the bolts are in odd places. Don't think I had any gear and didn't think it was worth the bolts I did use so we didn't re-work them. Feel free to have your way with it. If it adds another 5.9 to that area someone will thank you. Better yet why don't you come up to the Homestead with us and do some drilling there. EFR
By jbak
Apr 4, 2011

Well we were down there dinking around on Flat Top, and I spied a line on the little tower to the right, so I used Leaners to get up top. Got to the anchor, traversed left to my proposed line, lo and behold... a pair of anchor studs (yours ?). So we TRed the line under the studs and drilled most of it and did some cleaning. It's pretty fun, but not finished. So if I go to the top again, I may drill a bolt on Leaners just to protect the start. I almost did that on Saturday because I was sure you wouldn't care.

Once the other route is done, I could erase Leaners if you like.

Anyway, for the record, anyone out there thinking about doing Leaner's Permit as a sport climb, don't. It is a least R-rated even with supplemental stoppers.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 4, 2011

Add bolt/bolts if you like. Pretty sure I did TR the thing you just bolted. Guess there is no Drill By: date on the thing and it might still be edible. Wouldn't be the first time you made a decent meal of my left overs. You should go north with us some time. I am telling you John there is good stuff all over up there.