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Leaner and Meaner
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.7 from 48
votes
Routes in Middle Spire
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Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Beautiful Let Down T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Harding's Other Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slowdancer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,765 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Oct 18, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description
Fingerlocks and some awkward jamming are the name of the game. Would be one of Tahoe's best splitter cracks of its grade if it weren't so contrived. You can use the wall to the right most of the way for your feet making the route much easier. Staying off this wall makes it classic and hard. You get forced off the (stem) wall by the time you hit the crux but it makes it a whole lot easier. Endurance is the real crux had the right wall not been there. I don't know, seems a bit contrived. Still a really good "laser cut" splitter that is a challenge no matter how you choose to climb it.
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