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League of Notions Area
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League of Notions T 

League of Notions 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 270', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Moore, Randall Grandstaff. Fall 1976
Page Views: 1,097
Submitted By: John Hegyes on Jan 23, 2006

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Red Rock pioneer Joe Herbst leads the first pitch ...

Description 

This route sits low on the East Face of Cactus Flower Tower. Joanne Urioste observes in the Red Book that while standing at the mouth of Oak Creek Canyon (say, at the intersection of Oak Creek Trail and Knoll Trail), the line of League of Notions sits on the plumb line from the top of the Mount Wilson summit.

Approach by hiking up the ridge line that is on the left side and parallel to the drainage below the climb. Once through the pink cliff band, you'll need to contour right to the base of the climb.

Pitch 1: Ascend the dihedral. Build an anchor at some bushes to the right. There are slings here for rappelling.

Pitch 2: Go to the right and down, traverse the face on thin holds to the next crack. Little pro.

Pitch 3: climb up the chimney and off-width through the roof and up the finger crack.

Rappel the route with two ropes.


Protection 

Standard rack with wide gear.



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League of Notions
BETA PHOTO: League of Notions
League of Notions
BETA PHOTO: League of Notions
Matt McMackin, another of the early Red Rock climbers, during the 1977 ascent.  Photo by  another Red Rock original, Tom Kaufman.
Matt McMackin, another of the early Red Rock climb...
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By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 24, 2006

I climbed this route yesterday and I have to say that it seemed to be quite the sandbag. I've climbed a few old-school 5.9 routes in Red Rock and this one seemed substantially harder.

We ended up having to aid through the first pitch. It felt like 5.10b or c. The second pitch was quite exposed and poorly protected for a fifteen foot traverse to the right. We gave up and bailed from slings at the top of pitch one.

It really seems like a good climb. The rock is a little mossy on pitch one, and the moss rubs off like dirt, making friction moves pretty tough. However, I can see why the first ascent team chose this line - it truly is beautiful.

By john campbell
Jan 24, 2006

I agree that this was a sandbag. I hardly ever tape up but I would recommend taping up for this route. The crack on P1 is .75 - 1 Camalot.