P1: 5.10R, maybe X. Begin in the poison ivy and climb the corner. When the crack ends at a bulge, gear up really good, then face climb right a few moves and then up and around the bulge (run-out). It is possible to get a nut in a pocket in the middle of the face. You can then traverse back to the crack for pro or go straight up (slightly easier) to the bolted anchors.
P2: 5.11R. Crank up the wall just to the left of the anchors. About 10 feet up, you can use a rotten flake, but pull down (not out!). Get the first bolt, then go up the underclings past another bolt and then right to a hand crack. A #4 TCU can be placed in the undercling above the first bolt. Follow the crack up and to the right to a nice ledge with bolted anchors.
Now grab the draws and head up Spaceballs!!
The corner left of the main pool with all the poison ivy. 2 single-rope raps from the top of Spaceballs.
Rack up to 3", and quickdraws.
From: Golden, Colorado
Dec 26, 2006
Probably one of the best routes anywhere! The first pitch can also be protected with a 00 Wild Country in the pocket on the face. It may not be a very great placement, but it instills a little confidence.
|By Jordan Ramey|
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jan 31, 2007
Its three single raps to the ground from the top of spaceballs (since that linkup means three pitches).
|By Tony Mayse|
Mar 28, 2011
I have always linked the top two pitches.
If you are feeling solid the entire route can be done in one long pitch. Place long runners on everything and you will have min. rope drag.