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Leadville

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Camp Hale 
Finback Crags 
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Leadville  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,000'
Location: 39.25422, -106.29061 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33,250
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 24, 2014
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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A typical summer day at the Tiger Cliff.

Description 

This is an organizational entry for areas near to Leadville. It's been on my to-do-list for a while.

So, we'll sketch it in...and fill it in later.

This area has a number of crags at a higher altitude, thus many will be difficult to climb during the colder months.

Nearby crags in the area include: Bob's Rock near Buena Vista, Camp Hale (closer to Redcliff), Cecilville Slab, Dump Wall, Finback, Gilman, Granite area, Homestake Reservervoir (closer to Redcliff), Klettergarden (closer to Redcliff), Monitor Rock (in the Independence Pass section), Pyramid, Sawatch, and Weston.

The demarcations for these areas are a bit blurry, since Independence Pass, Vail, and Eagle are "relatively" close. We have to draw the lines somewhere.

As a Leadville climber notes, the immediate Leadville area has a slight dearth of noteworthy climbing crags which may explain its relative lack of a climbing community.

Getting There 

Some will get to Leadville via US 24 from I-70 if you come from the west. Others may access Leadville from the north and east via CO 91 from I-70. Those coming from the south will access it off US 24.

Leadville climbing website 

40minutesfromleadville.com/

Guidebooks 

There is a guidebook for Camp Hale called Camp Hale Rock Climbing by Bob & Carrie Robertson. It covers 11 crags and 69 routes from 5.5 to 5.12. 56 are sport routes (down to 5.6), 3 are trad routes (5.8-5.9), and 10 are TRs (all but one are 5.6 or less). Most of the climbing is sport routes under 5.10.

There is a new guidebook 40 Minutes from Leadville: Notes on Rock Climbs Near Leadville, CO by Justin Talbot for the Leadville area.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 0.6 miles from here

55 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',5],['5.9',8],['5.10',21],['5.11',9],['5.12',8],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Leadville:
Taliban Blues   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   Hell's Gate/ Hagerman Pass : Slab from Hell
Blue Bells   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'   Tiger Cliff : The Left Side
Straight Through The Gates of Hell   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Hell's Gate/ Hagerman Pass : Slab from Hell
Paintbrush   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'   Tiger Cliff : The Left Side
Currant Arête    5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'   Tiger Cliff : The Left Side
They Call Me Mr. Grease   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Camp Hale : Warrior's Wall
The Gold Card Indirect   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'   Tiger Cliff : Main Wall
Burning Bright   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'   Tiger Cliff : Stripes Wall
Warrior's Tears   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Camp Hale : Warrior's Wall
Browse More Classics in Leadville

Featured Route For Leadville
David Fay on the last of the three crux sections.

Amba 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13  CO : Leadville : ... : Main Wall
In certain tribes in Siberia, Amba refers to a mythical wise old man embodied as a tiger.Like Siberian tigers, routes as good as this one are rare. Amba, the route, climbs a soaring seam on the steep right panel of the Main Wall. Begin up an easy corner with a few loose blocks and trend up and right along seams to a stance near a ledge of the right edge of the wall. A challenging - and slightly runout - sequence back left lands one below a striking crack up the black streak. Technical boulder pr...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Leadville Add Comment
Show which comments
By maryjax
From: golden
Aug 4, 2007
Hi,
Does anyone out there have any info on the routes at Homestake Creek in the Holy Cross Wilderness area? Is there a guidebook for this area?
Any info before next weekend would be great!
Thanks.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 29, 2009
I've got the old Rock & Ice that lists routes for Homestake. I'll pull it out. If I recall it's from the mid-90s(?) and it's the kind of thing you don't see anymore. Great crag. I did a bunch of my early climbing there.
By AEdwards
From: Durango, Colorado
Mar 24, 2014
Great resource for Leadville climbing!
40minutesfromleadville.com
By Scheid
From: Vail, CO
May 27, 2014
Most of the routes filed here are basically in Red Cliff. Why did they get moved here from the Eagle County area?
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 31, 2014
Schneid, a MP.com user suggested a reorganization. These various crags were scattered and less organized. So, it seemed to make sense to do as this user suggested. Certainly there are plenty of ways to organize crags. This one just seemed an improvement compared to what we had previously.
By Justin Talbot
Jun 18, 2015
The new Leadville Area Guidebook is available at Ledville Outdoors, Melanzana, Community Threads, The Trailhead (in BV), and Neptune Mountaineering.

To order online and checkout a preview go to:
blurb.com/b/6246553-40-minutes...
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