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Waterfall Cliff
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L to R R to L Alpha
Charlie Solo 
Falls, The 
Greeboo, The 
Leading To Death 
Lieback Corner 
Oracle, The 

Leading To Death 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,828
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Aug 20, 2002
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Sallie high up starting the 5.9 steeper section.

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Begin just right of the right-most arete on the waterfall cliff and climb up the slab to the first bolt. After the bolt, work your way up a dirty crack until it ends, and a steep 5.9 face awaits you. For more of a challenge near the bottom, a .10d variation involves starting on the slightly overhanging face left of the arete and going up to the crack. Only problem is that if you're up for a .10d, you'll find the remaining 55 feet of climbing pretty uneventful. This way you'll also miss the first bolt, so top roping is probably the best way to go.


Three bolts plus ~25 feet of 5.6 crack that you can protect with some small to medium gear.

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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Sep 29, 2004

Leading to Death has immediate exposure getting to the first bolt as as you traverse up and left the ground falls away! The climbing isn't difficult though.After clipping moving around left to the ramp is one crux. Up an easy ramp/corner for 15' or so to the steeper wall above. Well protected and not that difficult. You just don't really see what's coming up until you start the moves. All in all, a fun climb!

By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

Another OK route.

By Daniel Hottinger
Aug 8, 2011

Nice route with all hard sections protected by bolts. The crack takes small pro but is usually filled with dirt. Used nut tool to clean some of it out before placing nuts.

By Phil McAllister
Jun 1, 2012

Fun variation is to cros over to the top section of convulsions as soon as you can ( just after the cave/roof on convulsions) makes the top section a little more interesting for a second climb - works pretty well especially on top rope.