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Begin just right of the right-most arete on the waterfall cliff and climb up the slab to the first bolt. After the bolt, work your way up a dirty crack until it ends, and a steep 5.9 face awaits you. For more of a challenge near the bottom, a .10d variation involves starting on the slightly overhanging face left of the arete and going up to the crack. Only problem is that if you're up for a .10d, you'll find the remaining 55 feet of climbing pretty uneventful. This way you'll also miss the first bolt, so top roping is probably the best way to go.
Three bolts plus ~25 feet of 5.6 crack that you can protect with some small to medium gear.
|By Paul Rezucha|
Sep 29, 2004
Leading to Death has immediate exposure getting to the first bolt as as you traverse up and left the ground falls away! The climbing isn't difficult though.After clipping moving around left to the ramp is one crux. Up an easy ramp/corner for 15' or so to the steeper wall above. Well protected and not that difficult. You just don't really see what's coming up until you start the moves. All in all, a fun climb!
Sep 12, 2006
Another OK route.
|By Daniel Hottinger|
Aug 8, 2011
Nice route with all hard sections protected by bolts. The crack takes small pro but is usually filled with dirt. Used nut tool to clean some of it out before placing nuts.
|By Phil McAllister|
Jun 1, 2012
Fun variation is to cros over to the top section of convulsions as soon as you can ( just after the cave/roof on convulsions) makes the top section a little more interesting for a second climb - works pretty well especially on top rope.