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Leading Should Feel This Way 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,125
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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met a couple of very friendly locals... i think th...

Description 

This route climbs the large roof to the right side of the crag. Start at a very high first bolt (consider stick clipping, placing a small cam, or getting some balls). Clip the second bolt below the large roof (decking possibilities). Pull the roof using the small rail and some heel hooks. Clip the next bolt and shake out. Begin to follow the bolts slightly to the right and then left toward the anchors. Fight the pump through this section and find good rests for the run to the anchors. This route is the gem of the crag.

Location 

This route climbs straight through the middle of the large roof on the right side of the crag. From the left, this is the fourth bolted route.

Protection 

6 bolts and ring anchors. You can use a TCU or nut to protect yourself before the first bolt.


Photos of Leading Should Feel This Way Slideshow Add Photo
simon williams pulling the first roof
simon williams pulling the first roof
josh pulling through the second roof
josh pulling through the second roof
lil sequence of the roof pull :)
lil sequence of the roof pull :)
Matt on Leading should feel this way; great overha...
BETA PHOTO: Matt on Leading should feel this way; great overha...

Comments on Leading Should Feel This Way Add Comment
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By BrianWS
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun roof pulling and sustained overhung climbing afterward. As for the first bolt, please opt for the stick clip or a piece of gear lower down rather than just "growing some balls" if you are not 100% solid at the grade.
By Bob Ewing
From: Arlington
Nov 6, 2013

Excellent route. I agree with BrianWS, definitely protect yourself before the high first bolt. A #0.4 BD cam works perfect. I placed a #1 BD cam after 2nd bolt and overhang, then removed the #1 after clipping the 3rd bolt. Probably the best climb at the crag.
By aribtraryusername
Dec 1, 2014

as of 11/30/2014 there was an added first bolt protecting the start of this route (not placed by me). so the small cam at the bottom is no longer necessary. it also seems like the last bolt may have been relocated, it seemed in a much better place to clip than i remembered previously.
By Keegan Dimmick
From: Winchester, VA
Dec 1, 2014

Why are we adding extra bolts to this route?!?! This route has been climbed for years without serious issues. Like most people say, just use a small cam and then climb to the first bolt. Not ok.
By Edwin B
Dec 1, 2014

At the very least, it'd be nice to know who is putting in new bolts/routes here.
By aribtraryusername
Dec 2, 2014

ftr, a few months ago we saw a leader deck when their small cam pulled, and the paramedics had to be called--it was not a good landing on the boulder by the start. i wonder if the new bolt was inspired by that injury.
By Edwin B
Dec 2, 2014

Understandable; and there's a legitimate question about a cam being required for a bolted route at an almost entirely bolted crag. I would still like to know who's active with a drill in our area, so if you or anyone else reading has any information, please send me a message. Not trying to stir anything up.
By Keegan Dimmick
From: Winchester, VA
Dec 11, 2014

If the first bolt is too high go climb a different route or learn how to place a proper cam. I've had cams pop out on me and guess what, I didn't add a bolt. I came back and placed the cam again, but in a better location. If you didn't get the FA, don't add any bolts. Pretty plain and simple.