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Leading Should Feel This Way 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 3,187
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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met a couple of very friendly locals... i think th...

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Description 

This route climbs the large roof to the right side of the crag. Start at a very high first bolt (consider stick clipping, placing a small cam, or getting some balls). Clip the second bolt below the large roof (decking possibilities). Pull the roof using the small rail and some heel hooks. Clip the next bolt and shake out. Begin to follow the bolts slightly to the right and then left toward the anchors. Fight the pump through this section and find good rests for the run to the anchors. This route is the gem of the crag.


Location 

This route climbs straight through the middle of the large roof on the right side of the crag. From the left, this is the fourth bolted route.


Protection 

6 bolts and ring anchors. You can use a TCU or nut to protect yourself before the first bolt.



Photos of Leading Should Feel This Way Slideshow Add Photo
simon williams pulling the first roof
simon williams pulling the first roof
josh pulling through the second roof
josh pulling through the second roof
lil sequence of the roof pull :)
lil sequence of the roof pull :)
Matt on Leading should feel this way; great overhang move, fun movement.
BETA PHOTO: Matt on Leading should feel this way; gr...
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By BrianWS
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Fun roof pulling and sustained overhung climbing afterward. As for the first bolt, please opt for the stick clip or a piece of gear lower down rather than just "growing some balls" if you are not 100% solid at the grade.

By Bob Ewing
From: Arlington
Nov 6, 2013

Excellent route. I agree with BrianWS, definitely protect yourself before the high first bolt. A #0.4 BD cam works perfect. I placed a #1 BD cam after 2nd bolt and overhang, then removed the #1 after clipping the 3rd bolt. Probably the best climb at the crag.