|New Economy Cliff
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Just right of Market Meltdown and a white dyke is a steep smooth face. This is Leading Indicators. Crank up the steep face past several, hard crimp moves. Reach a good rest after the third bolt and take it. After resting, follow the line of bolts up the steep wall on good holds to the anchor. Excellent technical climbing on good rock.
Nine bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 10, 2002
This is a very interesting line that actually ascends to a distinct "peak" (read point). We thought something in the 12c range as well, but reserved for a single sequence getting past the second clip. Enter the route from the right side on good jugs to gain a very thin, vertical seam. Feet are perplexing and lousy. Just above the third bolt is a serviceable sloping edge, but getting here is most of the challenge. One good high right step will lead off into a series of fine, crisp edges at 11d or so after the second clip. Climbing is highly continuous to the fourth clip, after which things settle down to solid 5.11 on some occasional humongous jugs. We kept a left hand on the arete for most of its distance. Two stars for certain.
From: Golden, Colorado
Aug 12, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
We actually started this route from the left via a large flake and mini-horn, coming from the right seemed a little silly. Do easier climbing up to the 2nd bolt on decent holds and good stemming, then moving beyond the second and third bolt is the definitive crux here. A nice boulder problem leads to an awkward and thrutchy move up to and past the 5th bolt, which leads to more 5.10/11-climbing that's just so-so. The meat of this route is the first 4 bolts; however, it is a fun outing if you're at the cliff.