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Cyclops Rock
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Leader's Fright 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Foote, Woody Stark, Dick Webster 1966
Page Views: 1,024
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Oct 29, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Cyclops Rock with the northwest and southwest face...

Description 

The route is the obvious crack on the extreme right of the northwest face of Cyclops. Setting protection is a bit problematic, and tis a bit runout in one spot. This route acquired its name due to a leader fall on the FA. FA 1966.


Protection 

Standard rack



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Leader's Fright, 5.8
BETA PHOTO: Leader's Fright, 5.8
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 18, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Gain access to the base by climbing the chimney to the right of the eye route. Route starts in a dark corner with a shallow crack off of a large flat shelf.

Protect crack low with medium stopper and then a small Metolius cam in a horizontal about 8 feet up from the deck. Bomber handcrack for 1" cam which can be difficult to place as that's where your hand is. Climbing eases as you follow the crack up and left. Bringing long slings allows you to sling a horn or two. Follow up to a chimney where you'll see tons of trash at the bottom and follow up to top left. Two crack systems (one on left where you are and one vertical on right) allow for many choices to set anchors. Left crack takes 2-3" right vertical takes .5 to 1.5".

As for the R rating of this route - new .8 leaders take extra caution as you start but the landing is flat. The shallow crack does take pro - use it.

Walk off to back side of formation towards the Manx boulders.

~Susan