All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Crawford Notch > Mt Willard > 02. Gulley No.1 Butt…

Lead Poisoning

Name: Lead Poisoning
Rating: 2.5

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R

Routes in 02. Gulley No.1 Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
	Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Ten Comandments (Mid-cliff start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, Alpine, 350 ft (106 m)
FA:	Todd Swain & Mike Cody
Page Views:	740 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Robert Hall on Jun 9, 2015
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

2 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

The climber that made the 2nd ascent, informed me that this Swain route should be pronounced "Leed Poisoning", as in "Who is the climber leading that route?" According to Webster, Swain and Cody required three attempts to finish this route!

Webster/Swain listed the climb as 5.9, but other sources (NE Climbs) gives it a 5.10 which, considering the protection is still 30+ year-old 1/4" bolts is probably best. The belay bolts, however, HAVE been replaced.

START: About 40 ft right and down from the Mice & Men corner, at a shallow right-facing corner. From the start of "Part the Sea" walk uphill (steeply) for about 40-50 ft, then cut back right on steep ground to the START, a small dirt "ledge".

P1 Up the corner onto a sloping ledge, then easily up to the left end of the large sloping ledge that is the alternate belay of a shortened P1 of "Superior Races'. Now, up a short left-facing corner (pitch crux is just below the bolt) passing a 1/4 inch bolt about 90 ft up. [The bolts to your right with aluminum hangers are on the climb "Superior Races".] Straight up, then trend left another 30-40 ft to a bolted belay, [new 3/8" bolts, see the climb "Mouseketeers"] almost impossible to see from below, but located about 25' ft left of two small oak trees. 130-150 ft 5.7 R (We thought about 5.6 PG-13/R with some 5.4-5.5 R. Perhaps a bit more opportunities for protection than implied by Webster/Swain)

P2 per Webster: "Diagonal up a ramp, step left to a flake, climb steep rock to a short right-facing corner (bolt). Exit left* at the top* making thin moves (5.9) [...5.10?] past a 2nd bolt*. Follow a thin crack through a headwall, climb an arete and belay. 140-150 ft 5.9" - 5.10? [* NOTE: while this is the Webster description, in fact the two bolts are quite close together.] As of 2020 the bolts on this pitch remain the original 1/4 bolts.

P3 Up an easy arete to the top.

Descent - Rap with 2 ropes to the "Lead Poisoning" belay (now two 3/8" SS bolts; see the route "Mouseketeers").

The FA party walked off to climber's right and down. ( Uhg !)