|Redgarden - Tower Two
Another in a long line of great Frenchy-named routes in Eldo. I'm a bit hesitant to post this route, since I haven't actually climbed the whole thing, but it's pretty cool, and anyone with more knowledge of the whole route can feel free to add a comment.
Le Void starts off the upper ramp, about 30' right of The Serpent, and maybe 100' left of upper T2. To find the climb, look for a pair of left-leaning, left-facing dihedrals that lead up about 40' to a big, overhanging, downward-pointed flake. Start in either corner, the left is 5.9+, the right is 5.11. Both corners are well protected, and they merge on a ledge maybe 40' up.
From here, the route gets much harder, as it ascends the overhanging flake. For the first bit you can use cracks on both sides of the flake, as well as stem. The crux (11d) comes when you have to commit to the right side of the flake. A series of thin, powerful, lie-backing moves culminate in a lunge (at least for me) to a much better hold. From here, the pitch is much easier, and again ends at a small stance with rappel slings.
This is as far as I have ever gone on this route, but according to Rossiter, it continues up though a roof with a thin crack (11d/12a), and then merges with T2 to get to the top of the wall. If anyone has beta about this part, I'd love to hear it.
Tried the roof pitch today, wasn't very impressed. Tons of loose junk, nearly every gear placement and handhold relied upon flakes of dubious quality. If one was willing to yard on the loose stuff, the roof might be 11d, but it's definitely harder if you have any concern for your belayer and anyone one else who might be downrange. In my opinion the first two pitches (easily linked into one) deserve 3 stars, but -1 for the choss-fest roof.
The first two pitches of this route are well-protected. A 5.9 leader might want a #2 or #3 Camalot for the first corner, but other than that only small gear (wires, TCUs, and cams to 2", maybe with double in the TCUs) are needed for the 11d flake section.
The P3 roof takes thin gear; RPs, Micro cams, etc. Many of the placements on this pitch rely on poor quality rock. There used to be a fixed pin on this pitch, now my partner has it.
|By Rob Kepley|
May 16, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Pitch 2 is very cool and unfortunately too short. The second pitch is very intimidating, because the gear is blind where you need it most. It was hard to "sack up" and go for it not knowing how good the gear was. Solid 11+.
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Mar 2, 2010
...ah yes, the pitch through the roof. This is definitely the true technical and psychological crux of the entire route. From the funky belay above the steep 11d flake...Climb up and begin angling left under the roof. On this section you will encounter some scary choss! This is an experience in hollow flakes, non-bomber gear behind said hollow flakes and some antique fixed pro. After the harrowing traverse and somewhat powerful, contorted moves (trying not to yard on the really loose stuff), one arrives at the vertical fracture piercing the roof itself. Punch it out the crack with a couple strenuous jams and awkward holds and pull the lip.... Yikes, clear the deck! Haha...must not be that bad, I've done it 3 times in 20 years.
|By Roy Leggett|
Mar 2, 2010
My partner and I backed off after he attempted the second pitch. We were both afraid he'd factor 2 onto the anchor if he blew it. So, in my research and plans to redeem myself, I've heard that it is safer to set the belay below the first crux and link both cruxes, OR the Josh Wharton superhero beta is do it all in one long rope stretcher (which he said might be the best 12a pitch in the canyon this way).
Any thoughts Rob or Alex as to this approach? I suppose carrying the double or triple set (I'm not ashamed) of micros cams is the downside.
I get all hot and bothered thinking about it.
Mar 4, 2010
I followed Josh up the first 2 pitches this afternoon, which he'd linked as you describe. Although it does require a fair bit of gear, there are several good stances to rest and the .11d crux does have good gear. Red C3s, blue Aliens, purple TCUs, or all the above. It seemed natural to do this as one pitch and you can lower back to the ground with a 60m. The no-hands-rest before the crux flake means that you can totally de-pump.
|By Roy Leggett|
Mar 4, 2010
I guess I should clarify, I heard linking the 11+ flake into the large roof (second 11+ crux) was the way to go. Is that what you mean too? I didn't think you could lower to the ground from above the roof. Guess I'll just have to sack-up and go find out.
|By Scott Bennett|
Mar 4, 2010
It's possible to link the entire route into one pitch, and the drag's not bad. Of course, I wouldn't recommend the upper roof (p3), see my added comments above.
We left a fixed nut anchor above the p3 roof, and you can lower to the ground from there with a 60m rope.