Le Verne  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Suggested by B. Miller and S. Levin Submitted By:  Steve Levin on Nov 4, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

1st pitch (Le Toit)

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

Le Verne tackles the complete Redgarden Wall in five long pitches of climbing, four of which are excellent 5.10. This link-up starts on Le Toit, connects with Rosy Crucifixion to gain the Upper Ramp, then follows Love Minus Zero to T2 to the finish of Jules Verne. If you are looking for a challenging and varied 5.10, and are tired of repeating Super Slab, consider this little classic.

P1 (5.10d with 5.9s): Climb Le Toit through the large roof, combining pitches 1 and 2, and belay at 2 bolts. Long slings lower down and on the anchors atop the first pitch reduce rope drag on the roof. P2 (5.10b with 5.8s): Climb directly up above the belay, then traverse straight left at some fixed pins, and up and left to reach the top of pitch 2 on Rosy Crucifixion. Continue through the third pitch and run it out to the large tree with rap slings and belay. Again, good use of long slings down low reduces rope drag up high. Traverse over to the base of the Upper Redgarten Wall, then walk down to Love Minus Zero, immediately left of the start of Upper T2. P3 (5.10b s): Follow the left-diagonal crack (5.9+) up a beautiful, lichenous wall to a nice ledge on your left. Now climb the shallow left-facing corner above to a stance at the top of the difficulties. Load up on small to mid-size wires for this lead, and include some small RPs for the 5.10 corner. P4 (5.7): Follow T2 up the large right-facing corner, then just before that climb traverses left up the rotten band climb straight right 25 feet and belay on a ledge. It is possible to peek around the corner at the fourth pitch of the Naked Edge from this belay. P5 (5.10d): Climb the final Jules Verne bulge, a bit of rotten rock at a flake to a finger crack up and left, then follow a fun and sustained face (5.9) to the top. Descend the East Slabs.

Protection 

Small RPs to 3.5 inch cam. Load up on small - medium wires and TCUs.