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Le Teton 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Stan Gross, Spring 1955. FFA: Art Gran, Lito Tejada-Flores, 1965
Page Views: 8,554
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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I'm just past the crux on Le Teton. Photo by Kayte...

Description 

In any other part of the country this would easily be 5.10a. It actually reminds me of "Rosy Crucifixion" in Eldo, but slightly less scary.

There are many variations to the top: pick one and go ...

The climb starts in the crack on the left-facing face below the tree. Traverse into the crack and head straight up. At the end of the crack, traverse left under the energy-depleting roof then around the corner, clipping a couple of junky pins. From here, head up and slightly right - don't clip the pin on your left, as it will create too much drag. Instead, place a #2 Camalot with a long sling. Make a few more 5.8 moves to the top and belay at a two-bolt anchor.

Two ropes to the ground, or one rope to another pair of bolts.

Location 

Start from P2 of Northern Pillar. You'll be climbing the right side of the massive Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Le Teton Slideshow Add Photo
After the crux, the climbing is a steep but easy j...
After the crux, the climbing is a steep but easy j...
The party behind us on Le Teton whips at the crux....
The party behind us on Le Teton whips at the crux....
The beginning of the pitch.
The beginning of the pitch.
The last good stance for a while on Le Teton. Phot...
The last good stance for a while on Le Teton. Phot...
Cruised the crux on a nice cool August afternoon :...
Cruised the crux on a nice cool August afternoon :...
End of the vertical crack, ready to start the pump...
End of the vertical crack, ready to start the pump...
Dave finishing up Le Teton
Dave finishing up Le Teton
With the left hand on the jug, the short but pumpy...
With the left hand on the jug, the short but pumpy...

Comments on Le Teton Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 28, 2013
By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

Crux pitch is excellent. Strenuous, really on you for about 15 feet. Exposed for Gunks. Big holds; 5.7 if vertical. Those in marginal shape--as I was when led this--can step left to place gear and back to ledge to rest before committing. Don't bother with lower pitches. Scramble up 5.3 face just to the right of start to the good part.
By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

greaaat pitch.. i wish it were longer though.. the moves are so much fun. the jug haul goes 5.8 probably, with the crux (for me) being the crack and traverse.. super exposed!
By Steven Cherry
Jun 12, 2010

A #3 Camelot is very useful.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Dec 22, 2010

If you have a third, send a photographer up on top of the easy 5.2 in the corner. The jug haul up the arete is one of the best places in the Gunks to get wild shots.
By Michal Pasniewski
Jun 20, 2011

You can approach on P1 of Figerlocks or Cedar Box, 60m rope brings you to the belay block or the tree.
By paulmadry
Jul 27, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Has anyone done it via the arete (i think it's Mister G). It would make it into full length pitch of superexposed 5.8-5.9 (that overall feels more like 5.10 I guess).
By doligo
Aug 2, 2011

Paul: yes, it is described here, I believe: mountainproject.com/v/tetonia/...

Makes it a nice longer and sustained climb.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 20, 2012

very exposed. Nice burly jug haul at the end. Fun.
By RyderS
From: Boston, MA
May 19, 2013

Definitely required solid sequencing to fire the crux. Found myself in an outrageous laid out position above so much air! The creative sequencing definitely made it easier than trying to let my lockoff endurance carry me through... Great climb!
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Really fun climb with a pumpy crux and an exposed finish on some absolutely massive jugs. I took a completely unexpected whip onto a solid #2 at the beginning of the crux traverse sequence.
By Pawel
From: NJ
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

One of the best 5.9s. The exposed crux face has great moves and the juggy finish is pure fun. If only it were longer...