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Meat Wall
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Le Specimen 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Scott Leonard
Page Views: 850
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 7, 2001

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Description 

This was the first route bolted on the Meat Wall and went in during the fall of 1991, when Rifle was first beginning to catch on with Boulder climbers. As you approach up the steps, it's the second route to the left and can be recognized by the blue/grey/black streaked rock and hanging bulge which define the bottom half of the route.

Interestingly enough, this route has NO holds reinforced with glue. When I went back to repeat it a few years ago, I tore a hold off before the first bolt and pitched 10 feet to the deck, then I ripped off a jug above the crux and went for a 30-footer. Sporadic traffic, and the fact that the bottom half of the route is now usually dry, have cleaned things up a bit.

This route is a prime example of fucked bolting, as most of the clips are placed at an arm's extension (a relic of an 80's-style sport climbing ethos). If anyone wants to move them, it's ok by me. Long reaches to good holds and a pumpy headwall on surprisingly slopy pinches define the line.

It is 75 feet long.


Protection 

10 quickdraws.



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By Adam Holmes
Oct 13, 2003

This route has been rebolted by someone and they've done a pretty good job of it. Most of the bolts have been repositioned. Great route which deserves more traffic.

By David Danforth
From: California/Colorado
Jan 17, 2005

I just want to applaud you guys (Matt, Dave, Lee) or anyone else who was involved in the rebolting. Communication. It's nice to see people communicating with the FA party about rebolting routes. It seems so often people go in and rebolt someone's work with little care of the effort the FA party put in to begin with. That's all. -cheers-

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 4, 2011

This route got rebolted with glue-ins during the recent 2011 Rifle RendezSPEW (Cleanup Day).