Le Rap et Tap 5.11b PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Dana Houser, Jim Hall and Scott Carson, 1987 |
| Submitted By: | tenesmus on Jul 17, 2007 |
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Getting ready to sink some bomber brass on Le Rap ...
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Description Nice thin face climbing on impeccable edges, sidepulls, cracks and slopers.
Location This is on the face left of the Wealth of Nations dihedral.
Protection There was a block in the initial dihedral where you could previously place small micro nuts but this is not there now. So I climbed the right side of the dihedral (with bomber nuts or cams) for 10 to 15 feet and then traversed 10 feet left to the first bolt. Then you get another bolt and climb up to a crack which would take a big handsized cam. Then more small nuts or a cam then a rotten fixed pin and finally a rusty 1/4 inch stud bolt. The anchors are slings on a horn with biners.
The alternate start to Le Rap et Tap is shown here...
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| Comments on Le Rap et Tap |
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By John Steiger Feb 19, 2010
| Someone replaced the bolts (now all 3/8") and added a bolt to the start (where the block had come off), straightening the line and eliminating the need to stay in the initial left-facing corner (the line no longer has the "weird start" as characterized in the Ruckmans' guide). In my view, this is the standard BCC 11b by which to rate all other quartzite 5.11 slabs. Excellent, challenging route; hat's off to the FA party. |
By tenesmus May 19, 2010
| My bad for not noting the changes we made last summer. Mike White replaced the bolts with ASCA goodness. details. |
By Tryhard From: Sandy, UT Aug 20, 2011 rating: 5.11b
| I thought this route was sweet! Tricky crux moves, some physical moves, some delicate edgy slab, beautiful bomber bolts. All smiles. |
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