Le Pumping Bull  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Richard Aschert, Darryl Roth, Bob D'Antonio, Jim Waugh, Jun '87 Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Dec 22, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The Pumping Wall:

Purple: Sorority Girls...

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Description 

Among the best 5.12s at Shelf, Le Pumping Bull is worth the price of admission. Climbing an unparalleled swath of bullet hard stone, and offering sustained, pumpy movement up the continuously overhanging wall.

Begin at a left-facing corner 10' below a 2'-deep roof. Climb up the corner and make powerful moves to clear the roof. A pumpy stance on the slab above provides modest recovery. Work left, crossing a detached flake, towards another feature, then big moves to gain a horizontal band of sloping jugs. The crux follows with big reaches and minute crimps to reach another horizontal band of black rock (optional cam placement here). Roll up onto a slabby scoop for some much-needed rest. More continuous, pumpy climbing works up the more-featured black stone. After the 8th bolt, move right to the anchor on The Skinwalker, or continue to the top of the wall (no anchor).

Location 

Shares first bolt with The Skinwalker, then moves left.

Protection 

9 bolts, no anchor. Possible to traverse to The Skinwalker anchor above bolt #8. Optional 3/4" cam for runout between bolts 4 & 5.