||Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III
|Consensus: ||WI4 [details]|
|FA: ||Jean -Francois Denis et Serge Roy, 1977|
|Page Views: ||1,555|
|Submitted By: ||Chris Hillios on Dec 8, 2008|
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The Ultra classic "Le Gringalet" known for "The Hand" which is formed by updrafts coming up the right wall. In many seasons you can climb behind this formation to clear the final pitch.
P1: Climb the short pitch to the ledge ~ 50 ft. (In early season you may be climbing more rock than Ice) 2 Glue-ins are located about 25' to the left on this ledge.
P2: head back to the corner and climb out your ropes to a ledge with a single Piton and a bomber bolt, just below the hand. (Your partner may need to walk back right on the ledge to reach this belay.)
P3: This is the money pitch. Climb either under or around the hand and either head up and right to an anchor(if you will be rapping the route) or continue straight up over the next bush and up the dry direct route (If you have additional info here, please let me know)
At the end of the road, continue along the lake and head up the trail that exists at the base of the cliff. If the route is free, rap the route(Additional Raps exist if you head 20 meters to climber's left at the top of the route... Again if you have additional info here, please let me know) (two 60meter ropes required to rap this route)
Stubbies and ROCK GEAR (From med. nuts to a #1 Cam)
Bryan Barnett heading up the pleasant 2nd pitch of...
BETA PHOTO: Chris Hillios starting up the last pitch of Le Gri...
Looking up at "The Hand" in early season condition...