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South Peak - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
A Better Way T 
Agony T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Bite, The T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Breakneck Direct T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
By Pass T 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 
Conn's West T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 
Front C T 
Gendarme Direct T 
Gendarme South Face, The T 
Gendarme, The T 
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Heartburn T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Kosher Critter T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Roof Traverse T 
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 
Scrambled Leggs T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:

Le Gourmet Direct 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 2,388
Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Feb 8, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The rope is more or less going down breakneck. The...


Climb to the right of the pine tree. From here on look for the easiest climbing. Near the top work to the arĂȘte at left and move on to the west facing wall. Over 100 ft. Despite the name this route wanders back and forth across the south facing wall beside the traffic jam rappel. It feels like 5.8 climbing.


Located below the Traffic Jam rappel. Start at the west side of the south facing wall.


There are at least 4 decrepit pitons (2004), clip at your on risk.

Photos of Le Gourmet Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat leading the direct start of Le Gourmet.
Pat leading the direct start of Le Gourmet.
Rock Climbing Photo: start of Le Gourmet
BETA PHOTO: start of Le Gourmet
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat higher up the route.
Pat higher up the route.

Comments on Le Gourmet Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Aug 1, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Be very careful on this route. There are some rather large loose blocks (more or less on the center line/left of center) that will eventually go and the base of Traffic Jam/Neck Press rappel is right there. Sketchy!
By BredStache
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There is a fair amount of loose rock on this route, even by Seneca standards. The best line is tricky to find and wanders across the right-facing corner. It DOES make the first two pitches of Le Gourmet into one pitch, but this is unlikely to save you much time.

Overall, it's somewhere between OK and Good. I wouldn't go out of my way to do it, but if you've exhausted the 5.6ish routes at Seneca, it's not a bad route to push your route-finding skills.

Photo credit: RESLScience 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Brendan cleans a piece mid-route as John belays fr...
Brendan cleans a piece mid-route as John belays from a hanging belay near the top of the pitch. This could have been one pitch but John couldn't find the 6 more slings bundled up on his harness, d'oh!

Photo Credit: RESLScience 2012
By Gunkiemike
May 18, 2015

I would say that while this is a good-to-very-good pitch, it is absolutely NOT a 5.6. So if you're looking for, say, a 5.7 challenge, get on it. The gear is decent, if varied and challenging at times. (I was working hard to sew it up but my second said everything was bomber) The climbing was "thoughtful", and that's good for the lead head once in a while I suppose. Bottom line - I'm really glad I did it.

Calling this a 5.6 helps substantiate Seneca's rep for sandbag grading. My home crag is the Gunks, so that's saying something!

I didn't know what to make of the comment in the guidebook about going right of the first tree etc. What WAS very helpful was the bit about getting into the short chimney high up in the pitch; I wasn't clear on which way to go at that point.

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