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Lazy Squaw Spire
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Lazy Squaw Spire 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: someone from an earlier era
Page Views: 1,809
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Nice big shot of the route taken March, 22, 2012 a...

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Description 

This is an intriguing, 80-foot, twisted, little, granite spire that invites you to check it out as you drive around the upper parts of Golden Gate Canyon SP. It seems fairly unique in Colorado in my wanderings. Done a long time ago based upon the ancient bolt on top. This is the obvious line, but there are others if you linger. From Panorama Point, continue on the dirt road to the Lazy Squaw Ranch. Find this obvious spire on the hill behind the Ranch. Get a bearing. Hike up through a forest 20-25 minutes.

This is the path of least resistance:

Start on what seemed to be the SW face. Follow a line of 3 bolts up a face (crux), angle right and curl around to the SE face up easy, broken rock, pass an ancient bolt, and find yourself on top.

Rap 80 feet from a fixed anchor. Because this anchor is basically centered on top, the rope pull can require a bit of a pull.

You can extend your day with a wander (bushwhack) left to the second buttress of Mt. Thoridin as we did that day.

Protection 

We used a blue Alien, small wire, #2 Friend, another Alien, 3 QDs, 1 longer sling, and 50m rope.

Parking 

Another reminder: figure out legal parking before you head up to do this climb.


Photos of Lazy Squaw Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Lazy Squaw Spire.
BETA PHOTO: Lazy Squaw Spire.
Hill on the summit.
Hill on the summit.
The start and the bolts are just to the right.
The start and the bolts are just to the right.
@ first bolt. <br />Easiest way to here is to step left onto that block my right foot is on from the right side of the photo.  If you place gear to the right of that block, you will have horrible rope drag and a scary swing for the 2nd.  I clipped the bolt then back cleaned the gear over right...then tried straight up (much harder).
@ first bolt.
Easiest way to here is to step left ...

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By Bryson Slothower
May 28, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The crux seemed to be before the first bolt to me, protected by good TCU. There is a chain on the anchor at the top that makes pulling the rope easy, it seems some of the bolts may have been recently replaced as well.
By Ken
Sep 29, 2008

Bolts are somewhat difficult to spot from the base - look carefully along SW face for slab that is maybe 20' above an overhanging section. I started right of the overhang and traversed left towards the bolts - protected well but there was an unfortunate amount of what I assume is bat shit and piss which made this less than desirable. A little ways past the 3 bolts there are 2 more on a ledge that can be used as a belay if you do it in 2 pitches - which will reduce rope drag and make it a little easier to hear your partner.
By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Mar 1, 2009

Do NOT park at the Harmsen Ranch and then walk up to the spire...I just received a $50 ticket for parking here from the rangers. I didn't block the gate even, but they decided to ticket my partner and I anyway...great way to end a great day of climbing! NOT!
By NickP
From: Golden, CO
Dec 14, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Probably would have given it more stars if the climb wasn't cut short by the rangers to get ticketed. Make sure you park in the parking lots (not on the road) and approach the climb by going AROUND the ranch.
By Joey Wolfe
Jun 28, 2013

One star climbing to a 3 star summit. Really cool feature to stand on top of.