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Lazy Squaw Spire
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Lazy Squaw Spire 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: someone from an earlier era
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,084
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Lazy Squaw Spire.

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an intriguing, 80-foot, twisted, little, granite spire that invites you to check it out as you drive around the upper parts of Golden Gate Canyon SP. It seems fairly unique in Colorado in my wanderings. Done a long time ago based upon the ancient bolt on top. This is the obvious line, but there are others if you linger. From Panorama Point, continue on the dirt road to the Lazy Squaw Ranch. Find this obvious spire on the hill behind the Ranch. Get a bearing. Hike up through a forest 20-25 minutes.

This is the path of least resistance:

Start on what seemed to be the SW face. Follow a line of 3 bolts up a face (crux), angle right and curl around to the SE face up easy, broken rock, pass an ancient bolt, and find yourself on top.

Rap 80 feet from a fixed anchor. Because this anchor is basically centered on top, the rope pull can require a bit of a pull.

Per Greg Barnes: with the new rap anchor going directly down the route on the southwest side, it's a 95' rap.

You can extend your day with a wander (bushwhack) left to the second buttress of Mt. Thoridin as we did that day.

Protection 

We used a blue Alien, small wire, #2 Friend, another Alien, 3 QDs, 1 longer sling, and 50m rope.

Parking 

Another reminder: figure out legal parking before you head up to do this climb.


Photos of Lazy Squaw Spire Slideshow Add Photo
The old bolt vs a new bolt. The sleeve of the drop...
The old bolt vs a new bolt. The sleeve of the drop...
Hill on the summit.
Hill on the summit.
The start and the bolts are just to the right.
The start and the bolts are just to the right.
The pro bolts were also drop-in bolts with good st...
The pro bolts were also drop-in bolts with good st...
Nice big shot of the route taken March, 22, 2012 a...
BETA PHOTO: Nice big shot of the route taken March, 22, 2012 a...
New summit anchor. You can see where the old ancho...
New summit anchor. You can see where the old ancho...
At the first bolt. The easiest way to here is to s...
At the first bolt. The easiest way to here is to s...
The first pro bolt after replacement. Again it was...
The first pro bolt after replacement. Again it was...
Summit anchor before replacement. Both of these ar...
Summit anchor before replacement. Both of these ar...
Anchor bolts, old and new. The old bolts are drop-...
Anchor bolts, old and new. The old bolts are drop-...

Comments on Lazy Squaw Spire Add Comment
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By Bryson Slothower
May 28, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The crux seemed to be before the first bolt to me, protected by good TCU. There is a chain on the anchor at the top that makes pulling the rope easy, it seems some of the bolts may have been recently replaced as well.
By Ken
Sep 29, 2008

Bolts are somewhat difficult to spot from the base - look carefully along SW face for slab that is maybe 20' above an overhanging section. I started right of the overhang and traversed left towards the bolts - protected well but there was an unfortunate amount of what I assume is bat shit and piss which made this less than desirable. A little ways past the 3 bolts there are 2 more on a ledge that can be used as a belay if you do it in 2 pitches - which will reduce rope drag and make it a little easier to hear your partner.
By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Mar 1, 2009

Do NOT park at the Harmsen Ranch and then walk up to the spire...I just received a $50 ticket for parking here from the rangers. I didn't block the gate even, but they decided to ticket my partner and I anyway...great way to end a great day of climbing! NOT!
By NickP
From: Golden, CO
Dec 14, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Probably would have given it more stars if the climb wasn't cut short by the rangers to get ticketed. Make sure you park in the parking lots (not on the road) and approach the climb by going AROUND the ranch.
By Joey Wolfe
Jun 28, 2013

One star climbing to a 3 star summit. Really cool feature to stand on top of.
By Send it Gary
Jul 31, 2015

The Lazy Squaw is like a Rock Siren calling me up the gullied trail created by her tears of mourning from the loss of her fallen warrior.

I can still see her soft, youthful beauty classically aged. As we got near, she drew away in a shy sort of way, deceiving us with her position. An hour later we were passing by the same two ant mounds, this time I look up! She is in front of me; she has learned her native skills well.

I went straight to her feet and flaked out an offering of blue/black and white herring bone pattern. I asked, “Could I be by your side?” She looked at me with those dark brown eyes and gave me ever so slight of a smile. With a trace amount of native blood in my veins, I thought she had accepted me over all-the-other rock warriors who came before, leaving silver but now rusted stains on her buckskin dress.

A cool breeze passed over my body, and I was sure she approved. I clung to her dress making my way to her ornate belt that her fallen warrior had given her on the day of their union. Soon I was upon her shoulder and worked my way around the right side where I whispered in her ear; “You’re still a lovely lady”. She was pleased with my offering and my words of kindness that allowed me to stand on her summit.

I returned to her feet, gathered what I had brought and we parted ways. My climbing partner, Kevin, left his knife as a gift.
By Lenny Miller
Aug 24, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

All lead and anchor bolts have been upgraded to 1/2" stainless - courtesy of The ASCA. Please consider donating to keep our climbing areas safe - thx!
By Greg Barnes
Aug 25, 2015

Just a note - if you rap directly down the route on the southwest side, it's a 95' rap. Since a 60m is a "short" rope these days, it won't affect many people!
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