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South Horror Rock
Routes Sorted
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Cactus Flower T 
Dog Day Afternoon T 
Father Ocean TR 
Flash Gordon T 
Garden Angel T 
Labor Day T 
Lazy Day T 
My Senior Project T 
Old Guys Gone Nuts, Gone to the Cops TR 
Perhaps T 
Pull My Finger, Barbara T 
This is Only a Test T 

Lazy Day 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Wilson, Mike Kaeser and Phil Warrender, November 1971
Page Views: 3,851
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (137)
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The sun is setting as we are looking for the rappe...

Description 

Thirty feet from the left edge of the rock is this steep finger/hand crack that passes a horizontal crack partway up. Gear belay and easy walk/scramble down a low-angled ramp off the backside (climber's left).

Although this route can be a little awkward in spots it's good fun and the short approach is hard to beat. A popular route and a good introduction to the Hall of Horrors. Three stars out of five.

Location 

Located on the same rock as Dog Day Afternoon but this route is on the east face and faces directly towards the road.

Protection 

Gear to 2.5", especially wires


Photos of Lazy Day Slideshow Add Photo
Lluis Penalver-Aquila doing a fancy Egyptian. (c) Scott Nomi.
Lluis Penalver-Aquila doing a fancy Egyptian. (c) ...
Lazy Day (5.7), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Lazy Day (5.7), Joshua Tree NP
Leading lazy day on an awesome Jtree afternoon in February, 2004.
Leading lazy day on an awesome Jtree afternoon in ...
Mark leading Lazy Day.
Mark leading Lazy Day.
Shown here is a picture of Dan cleaning for Lori and draging a rope for me to follow behind.  Our rappel was in the dark.  Good thing we brought our headlamps!
Shown here is a picture of Dan cleaning for Lori a...
B-Rad enjoys a nice Lazy Day.  Photo: Mike Morley
B-Rad enjoys a nice Lazy Day. Photo: Mike Morley
Lazy Day beta photograph.
BETA PHOTO: Lazy Day beta photograph.
A quick run up Lazy Day before the drive home
A quick run up Lazy Day before the drive home
Christa Cline working up to the ramp near the start of the pitch.
Christa Cline working up to the ramp near the star...
Lazy Day (5.7), Joshua Tree NP
Lazy Day (5.7), Joshua Tree NP
A climber prepares to rappel after completing "Lazy Day."
A climber prepares to rappel after completing &quo...
Lots of Beavertail Cactus near this climb...
Lots of Beavertail Cactus near this climb...

Comments on Lazy Day Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 25, 2013
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 21, 2002
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A couple of comments:

1) The anchor/rap bolts are about 20' to the right of the top of the route (atop Cactus Flower) and a single rope rap will get you back to the ground.

2) The route protects nicely with medium-size nuts. Didn't use anything larger than a #1 Camalot.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 13, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Yes, this is a good climb to practice the vanishing art of chock-craft. Repeated this route again yesterday (12/28/07) for the umpteenth time - man it was cold. Some nice moves through the traverse and up and into the crack above. There's a short down climb and then a careful walk off. I've never rappelled this route.
By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Mar 17, 2003

Did this route while on trip to the park and enjoyed it. Definitely will eat up nuts, but also smaller cams, there are places towards the top that a bigger (#2 or #3) can be used. Bigger cams cams be used for the belay anchor as well, the rap chains are too far away to belay from.
By Murf
Mar 17, 2003

Why would anyone rap from this route? The downclimb takes less than a minute!
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 29, 2003

a fun climb. a little awkward for me the first time I led it.I agree, why put in a rap anchor? the downclimb is cake.
By Dynomight510
Sep 11, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The walk off is a bit steep for beginners.

Short but sweet and protects well.

Solid but no harder
By calitradclimber
Feb 10, 2004

After having not placed gear in over a year I felt pretty good just walking up and flashing this route, although I had to twist myself into a pretzel to get up it. LOL. Honestly it would be quite scary for a first lead but it's certainly not a sand bag, it's par for the course at JT...
By Jim Kowalski
Feb 11, 2004

I've been wanting to chop that pointless eyesore rap anchor for years. But I'll let someone else do it. Even if that anchor was put there to TR that wall it's pointless. There's natural pro right above it.
By Randy
Feb 12, 2004

Please leave the Cactus Flower anchors alone. They were put there for a good anchor for THAT route (not Lazy Day). They have been there for many years.
By Brian Reynolds
Apr 14, 2004

Fun climb, even though it's really short. Pretty easy for 5.7, although I'm not sure I'd downgrade it to 5.6.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
May 12, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Protects well. Not much gear needed. I also agree on the walkoff being easy. No need to use anchors. Easy to place pro fro anchors. Short, fun.
By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun climb on tricky but positive jugs and a nice crack. Sucks up the pro nicely and seems to be a crowd pleaser.Definately worth climbing.Easy walk off.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Mar 31, 2009

Fun climb that puts one into some awkward positions. Fairly good pro throughout, a few spots are run out but holds are solid.
By peachy spohn
Mar 31, 2009

Really fun for the grade and relatively straight forward. You can traverse at the end to the anchors of Cactus Flower and rap off from there. Safe and in the shade in the late afternoon.
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Dec 29, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A few slightly awkward moves, but there were good jugs and great pro the whole way. I didn't see any bolts on top, but I don't think it needs them. One of the fastest walkoffs in Joshua Tree.
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 11, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nice climb, and correctly graded at 5.7. Good pro.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 29, 2011

hahaha... hohoho....bwhaaaaa..... LOL!!!!!6666


Which one of you punters is going to fess up to putting SIX FEET of chain at the top of this thing as an anchor! Humans.... best comedy on earth!
By fat cow
From: St. Paul, MN
Jan 2, 2012

you're joking about the chains right? it takes less than a minute to walk off this thing, and you could reasonably take about five or so minutes to make a top belay anchor. chains though really?
By Canon
Jan 14, 2012

A solid 5.7. Easy to protect, but moderately awkward in a couple spots. Easy downclimb off the back side.
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 29, 2012

Bring a couple #2 for the top anchor.
By Paul Pelletier
Apr 25, 2013

Would agree with what has been said already, nuts and stoppers work best on this route. Some larger cams (camalot 2-3) help with creating a top anchor.