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Sunnyside bench sports two 5.10 finger cracks, one just to the left of Jamcrack called Lazy Bum (5.10D) and the other just to the left of this called Bummer (5.10C).
Both cracks share the same first 20 feet, which is a bouldery 5.10b finger crack / face. Going slightly left from here puts you on Bummer 10C, and going right puts you on Lazy Bum 10D.
Both of these climbs are excellent, protect well (micro gear required), and perfect for tuning your thin crack technique. Short and hard.
Micro nuts essential.
placing gray TCU
great thin crack
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Don't need micronuts (standard set down to #4 BD works fine) on Lazy Bum. Two blue aliens are nice (one at the bottom starting crack, then one below the crux). Rest at the good stance before the crux, then commit and fire it- forget trying to place gear in the crux or you'll be flying off it anyway. Gear is bomber the entire way.
Anyone climbed the 2nd pitch?
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Mar 23, 2010
Is the second pitch right of Jamcrack's second pitch? If so, yes, I have climbed it. It is a 5.10a that is very devious, techie thin crack/face climb with a penchant for offset cams. For some reason, it was a really hard climb for me and I actually found the first pitch easier. Maybe that was just a bad day though.
Mar 23, 2010
Yes, the second pitches of Jam Crack and Lazy Bum crossover at the ledge. Lazy Bum's second pitch felt .10a to me. I could see how one could feel it is harder than that though as the pro is more difficult to place. Offset stoppers work well and I would suggest ending at the chains as opposed to climbing into the tree. Just a cleaner, better way to end the route in my opinion.
If you are just breaking into the grade then split Bummer and Lazy Bum into two pitches. But if you are comfortable on 5.10's then link them. The linkups of these two climbs makes a return to this popular and crowded spot worth while.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Jan 25, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
2nd pitch can be TRed from the 2nd pitch Jamcrack anchor and is a fun climb. A directional is recommended. We used the hanging flake just to the right of Lazy Bum.
|By Will Wilson|
From: Morganton, nc
Oct 27, 2011
I love this route!!