|Lower Eight Mile Buttress
Lazy Boy is the most striking line in the Bro's Nest, a stacked area of hard climbing on the west (uphill) side of Lower Eight Mile Buttress.
Start by avoiding a bit of moss, and entering a section of clean undercling, finger, and hand cracks through a series of overhangy features. This will deposit you below the eponymous flake. There's a picture in the new Kramar book that shows a dude headed up the right side of this, which looked doubtful to me.
I headed up the left side, and found great holds, as well as a somewhat humiliating (and awesome) mantle onto the lazy boy. It's fun to this point, but this upper crack is what you'll remember forever.
The upper crack is a long, pumpy, overhanging hand crack, with occasional finger locks, and stems out to sometimes good edges and smears. I found the rock to be a little dirty in the upper crack, either through infrequent use, or maybe because it catches runoff from the cliff above. One trip up there ought to clean out most of the dust.
Maybe those Leavenworth boys and girls are used to it, but I thought that this was one of the best cracks I have ever climbed. No single move will stop you, but it's an awful lot of overhanging jams to the top.
Hike to Lower Eight Mile Buttress, and make your way around to the west side (uphill, climber's left). Easily recognized by the big flake you can sit on in the middle of the route.
Gear to 2".
The upper section is a hand sized crack. There's an excellent anchor on top. You may have to step far away from the cliff to belay a second up, due to the rope-eating slot.
I used a 70, and didn't notice whether a 60 would have reached.
I ran into some guys who had been climbing for thirty years in the canyon, and asked them about it before I did it: One of them said that a number of strong climbers had been hurt on the thing. It doesn't surprise me - the upper crack is right above the lazy boy flake, and is cruxy. At an area with a less stoicism, this route would have an R-rating. Stitch up the bottom of the headwall crack, and you'll be fine.
Feb 8, 2013
Believe it or not, I had to go to the local urgent care for a bouldering injury last summer, and I ran into "the strong climber who got hurt on this". He was my doctor, a Dr Deladuca, if Im not mistaken. We got to talking about climbing, and I mentioned that this was one of the only hardish cracks Id done in Leavenworth. He was surprised, and told me the story:
"I was trying to get around the Lazy Boy, and got my leg stuck. I moved up, thinking it would twist out, but it didn't, and I twisted my bone apart. I ended up with a spiral tibia fracture."
He recovered well, and resumed normal activity. Color me embarrased to have professed that what was dangerous about this climb was the fall potential up in the high crack. That's the way I recall it, honestly, but this story doesn't quite substantiate that point. In any case, I highly recommend this climb.
Just don't rip your leg off. Or something.