Layering for multipitch climbing

Let's say you're planning on climbing in weather that could be cool enough that you might want a jacket while standing still; that might be windy; and there could be a chance of light showers.

What layer(s) do you bring or plan to use? Feel free to be specific (brand names and models appreciated), or to expound on what you might bring under different weather conditions.

(I'm tired of hauling around a crappy, heavy, cheapo fleece and/or puffy and/or hardshell on multipitch climbs, and I'm looking to go more fast-and-light. I'm hoping to pick your brains here on MP...)

Patagonia R1 is one of the best options IMO. Warm when you need it with a very active fit so it doesn't hinder any movement whatsoever. Black Diamond's Coefficient Hoody is a comparable second. As for showers, I'd pack something ultra-light like a Houdini jacket.

My system is that i have a wool hat in my pocket, a scarf and thin shirt tied to my waist about my harness. Then add a light windbreaker it there is wind. If things are looking super iffiy a space blanket in my pocket.

Long sleeve polypropylene that I can move in and not over heat, lightweight balaclava in cargo pants or rain jacket pocket, $5 dollar rain shell from goodwill in a small stuff sack from harness. If it's gonna be under 60 degrees or so add baselayers as needed that won't over heat, belay gloves, maybe a compressed puffy off the harness too. If you get cold extremities experiment w climbing w liners or socks, hand warners in the chalk bag. Bacon.

Khowe765 wrote:Patagonia R1 is one of the best options IMO. Warm when you need it with a very active fit so it doesn't hinder any movement whatsoever. Black Diamond's Coefficient Hoody is a comparable second. As for showers, I'd pack something ultra-light like a Houdini jacket.

This. I like the Piton more than the R1 (mainly a fit thing; I have short arms), but my system is about the same. The Houdini is basically the most useful and versatile bit of clothing I own (just don't wear in in OW).

Another vote for the R1, although I prefer the hoddy version, if it gets windy or chilly, just throw on the hood and warm up, also protects from the sun too.

Patagonia Houdini and I have 3 type of marmot driclimes...vest, omni and the hooded ether jacket. Between the 4 there isn't much you can't do. Climb well, warm, wind resistant, super light and fast drying.

Oh and I also use a combination of a silk base layer & patagonia cap 3 as a hiking, cold climbing, approach layer when it's cold out.

Unless it's winter, I rock a synthetic base layer that's light like poly pro and I have a puffy that folds into its own pocket and can clip on my harness.

Also, another vote for belay gloves. Cold hands suck.

Patagonia R1 + Houdini + Marmot Super Mica= bombproof alpine rock climbing layering.

For temps down to 60, I use the Arcteryx Atom LT-it's synthetic, breathable, wind and rain resistant and moves well. It's comparable to the Patagonia Nano. Cons are that it doesn't have a pocket to stuff it into, and it's not as durable and slightly heaver than the Nano. But I think the movement, breathability (better than the nano, I have both), fit of the hood/sleeves and versatility are worth the trade-off.

For temps to the 40's-50's , like everyone else I'll layer an R1 equivalent (Rab baseline hoodie) under it. There's great thread on here for alternatives:
mountainproject.com/v/patag…

I'll also carry a light wool long sleeve shirt (Icebreaker 150-200, or equivalent)--it's lighter than a fleece

Below 40, I stay home or go ice climbing.

For a light wind/rain shell, I use the Patagonia houdini. I generally carry that on my harness at all times--it's great sun protection too. But if it's really going to rain, I'll bring a goretex pro-lite shell (Arcteryx Alpha SL, weighs ~9oz).

I have a little 2 L stuff sack like this: seatosummit.com/products/di…

I clip the stuff sack to my harness and can fit my small down puffy in there (OR Transcendent Down Sweater) and wear it while belaying. There's also room for a snack, etc, in that little bag.

Along these same lines, what would you guys recommend for pants? Knock on wood, but so far I've managed to avoid bailing in miserable rain, but I could imagine I would be fairly uncomfortable from the waist down in my current setup. Admittedly, this is not as important as the core area.

evan h wrote:Along these same lines, what would you guys recommend for pants? Knock on wood, but so far I've managed to avoid bailing in miserable rain, but I could imagine I would be fairly uncomfortable from the waist down in my current setup. Admittedly, this is not as important as the core area.

I've had great success with OR pants. Using the ferrosi now, and have used other incarnations prior.

I've seen a lot of recommendations for the Houdini here. How does it hold up on durability? Will it tear if it gets snagged on a tree branch or something?

Also, anyone who has experience with both---how would you say the Houdini compares to the OR Helium 2?

Thanks for the replies guys, this is really helping me!

I love the Mountain Hardwear Piero trousers. Super durable, water resistant, a bit of stretch. Other softshells are good but I like the stiffer material of the piero. Only complaint is how baggy they are... I like a tapered ankle so I can see my feet without having to roll the legs up.

I saw someone recommended an Arcteryx Atom LT for tema in the 60's. That seema crazy to me... I don't even think I could belay in that jacket in the 60's.

Temps and sun/shade plus length of the route make every outing different. It has to be in the low 50s or at least really windy and shady or me to climb in an R1. They seem more like a winter piece to me. But when it's cold, they are the best top out there.

50-60 I'm wearing a heavier poly layer, and putting on a shell with a hood at each belay. 60+ and I probably dont need to put on the shell unless its really windy.

PS a good skull cap under your helmet keeps you warm enough to wear one less layer when climbing and gloves and even sicks for the belay are really nice on cold days. Socks can go right over the shoes, or just cut the feet off and wear 'em over your ankles while you climb!

M Bageant wrote:I've seen a lot of recommendations for the Houdini here. How does it hold up on durability? Will it tear if it gets snagged on a tree branch or something?

All those type of wind shirts can potentially tear whether its the houdini or a marmot driclime. A single ember will burn a small hole right through it.

That being said, these aren't bushwhacking jackets. They are meant to be light, wind resistant but breathable, dry fast etc. They are durable in the sense that you shouldn't be climbing chimneys or bushwacking through thickets in them.

However I swear by the houdini, and the marmot driclimes or the ion. most versatile overall pieces.

As far as the Atom LT...LOVE that jacket, but yeah that's like my late fall / spring/ early winter alpine jacket.

i wear 7 cotton t-shirts. and put 4 more in my pack. add or remove as needed.

if the route is long enough for me to need a pack i'll usually bring my goretex(arcteryx alpha lt).

if i'm going light, without a pack, i'll bring the patagonia houdini. the houdini is amazing btw. i climbed mt baker this past january in just a t shirt and the houdini most of the way (when stopped i put on a light jacket). most of the time i find its just the wind chill that makes me cold, so the houdini does great at keeping me warm from the wind. i can usually get away with a tshirt and the houdini here in WA for spring/summer/fall.

They made the Cap 4 a bit more of a standalone piece than a base layer in the most recent redesign, aside from the feel of the materiel, it seems as if the differences between it and the R1 are very slim.

I switched from the Houdini to the OR Helium II jacket last year (Patagonia's equivalent is the M10 jacket). It's a tiny bit heavier and bulkier, but not by much and has the added benefit of being a true waterproof/breathable piece.