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Oh yeah, now I remember why I love climbing...
Climber does a layback on the north side of the arete, with fingertips wrapped around the south side. Continue to the top, then mantle up. Can step off onto the boulder behind the fin if you lose nerve. Difficult to pad this problem.
This is a GREAT warmup, and one of the few problems at U-mound with truly juggy holds and an opportunity to warm up your arms without tweaking tendons.
The sharp arete on the west (ABQ-facing) edge of the fin.
Pads and spotters are of little help. Not a great problem for you if you're shaky on V1.
A very popular line. Get there early, as a queue t...
|Comments on Layback arete
|By Dave Wachter|
Feb 6, 2012
As of the beginning of Feb 2012 the finishing jug on this problem has been smashed off. There was a big smooth light-colored rock weighing about 7 or 8 lb lying just beneath the destruction, which made it pretty clear that someone had defaced it (didn't look like it had simply been pulled off by someone yarding on it). I also noticed at about the same time that a hold on the corridor problem had been broken. Both of the broken holds were at a level easily reached by someone standing on a boulder next to the problem and hitting them with a rock.
Good to see that the ABQ delinquents are getting out and enjoying the great outdoors! Assholes.