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This is an awesome tight hands, right-facing, varnished corner. It is immediately right of the obvious Serrator Crack, and 100 yards left of Way Rambo.
Climb a short wide section to a rest ledge, fire up to a second rest before a bulge, through the bulge up into the roof. Undercling or jam the roof for 12 feet, turn the corner and fire up to the anchors.
1 ea. 0.4
1 ea. 0.75
6 ea. #1
2 ea. #2
1 ea. #3
May 12, 2006
This is an awesome corner. I tried jamming most of the way to the roof but ended up in the "Layaway plan". There are some good rests. So you don't have to just chug the whole way.
|By Brian Weinstein|
Sep 23, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
A #2 fits perfectly at the lip of the roof, although that is the only goldie I placed. This is a striking route with three stained lines on the wingate just to the left.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 6, 2006
If you place a piece at the lip of the roof, it is very likley that, when you clip into the anchors and weight the rope, the rope will push the piece at the roof WAY up into the crack. I did this, and just barely got my gold camalot back out.
I suppose that the best way to avoid this would be to runner the lip piece, and then just make sure that the rope is out of the crack before you weight it.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 13, 2007
3/13/07, my friend Kevin replaced the anchors on this route. Much needed; it's incredible that so many folks have climbed and TR'd on the formerly mank anchors.
|By Chris Strouthopoulos|
From: Durango, Co
Nov 16, 2007
Follow the above advice about not putting in a cam above the lip of the roof. I was super pumped by the time I got there and fired one in a few feet above the lip on the vertical section. It's still there, a good 3 feet into the crack (we couldn't even get to it with a v-threader that a buddy happened to have in his pack). Don't make my mistake. Although it's a bit run out, keep firing to the anchor.
SUPERB line. Highly recommended.
|By Jared Spaulding|
From: Central WY
May 15, 2008
Camhead, thank your friend Kevin for anchor replacement. I was excited to see them recently as I was expecting the old rat nest. I too, found that by using short quickdraws on all my pieces under the roof I was able to avoid having my rope smash the cams deep into the abyss, thus making any runout unnecessary. Awesome line.
|By A. Wolaver|
From: Golden, CO
Nov 26, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
This route is simply georgous and relatively unviolated. The best strategy for keeping all you cams is to place a great #1 camelot at the rest in the beginning of the roof then chug to the anchors.