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Utah Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airtime T 
Apex T 
Apex Right T 
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb T 
In The Pink T,S 
Lawyers, Guns, and Money T,S 
Right of the Roof T 
Shotgun T 
Shotgun (Variation) T,TR 
unknown (right most crack in the roof) T 
Unknown (TR) S 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed Dihedral T 
Utah Crack T 

Lawyers, Guns, and Money 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: n/a
Page Views: 936
Submitted By: triznuty on Aug 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Jake Werner...first hard move!

Description 

This climbs the slabby face to the right of Shotgun crack. All I remember is clipping a few bolts on the face and then using some gear to protect the roof and cracks above. I pulled the roof a bit to the right of where Shotgun probably does. I also remember hitting chain anchors at the top (maybe shares the anchors of Shotgun??). It felt like a mid 10 at the time...

Protection 

Bolts and some sm-med gear.


Photos of Lawyers, Guns, and Money Slideshow Add Photo
Jake Werner...1st attempt on top rope
Jake Werner...1st attempt on top rope

Comments on Lawyers, Guns, and Money Add Comment
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By Travis Larsen
From: Ogden, UT
Aug 3, 2008

It's called Lawyers, Guns, and Money. I read that it was the first rap bolted line in Ogden, and hence the name.
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Aug 15, 2009

I'm pretty sure I found the right climb. My friend had the info and took us there. At the roof there's a small chimney you can pop through to get above. The start was a little weird because of a small ledge you have to get over. It'd be a roof if that section were vertical. We did it as a sport climb and didn't have any trad gear, or it would've been a little different, but still great as a sport. I still remember one hold at the beginning that was sharp as as knife that I stuck to get me over that first "roof."
By mike pleinis
Jul 14, 2010

This was the first sport route in Ogden, put up by Mike Pleinis in 6/87. The 80's were a time of sometimes heated debate over the "ethics" of rap bolting sport routes. It does exit the roof on it's right side, requiring some trad pro. Avoid the crack to it's left.
By wasatch-mtn-man
Sep 17, 2010

The bolts on this route could use some updating. They seem solid enough but are button-head types.

Very fun route. For me, the crux was getting over the first lip at the first bolt and some crimper moves on the face. Haven't figured out the best way to protect the roof yet but there are several options.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Oct 22, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The face part of this climb is incredibly thin. It felt 11ish to me. Maybe I am wimpy, but I found the face totally blank. The roof was really fun. It kind of felt like a mirror image of the Apex roof.
By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Sep 5, 2012

Beware pulling the roof, there are some less than secure blocks underneath but they can be avoided.