Passed by on the approach to the longer Muralla Grande routes, this good clean 1-pitch face climb has enough cracks to keep it from getting scary.
Climb the clean face right of the big dihedral. Start near the corner and climb straight up past a lone bolt to reach a 2-bolt anchor. Soon, move right to a finger crack, passing the crux, then angle up and left to a flake. From here, go straight up to the upper 2-bolt anchor.
This route is the first clean face you come to on the approach down Chimney Canyon, at the SE end of Muralla Grande. This climb ascends a striking clean face right of a prominent right-facing corner. The rap slings/bolts are visible from below.
Descent: one double rope rappel (35m), or 2 single rope rappels (25m+10m). I haven't tried it, but I think one rap with a 70m rope would work.
Cams from TCUs up to 2", with some extras in the smaller sizes, nuts.
A 2-bolt anchor is at the top, and another 2 bolt anchor at 1/3 of the way up. Bolts are old buttonheads, someone with time and energy might want to modernize them.
|Comments on Lawyers, Guns & Money
|By Chris Wenker|
From: Santa Fe
Aug 8, 2011
Anchors need some love here. All 5 bolts are big buttonheads (3/8"?), and are solid(ish), but some are cratered out behind the hangers.
The tat is also sketchy at both rap stations. We didn't plan or expect to climb this route, so we didn't have any replacement materials the day we were there, sorry. Take new cord/webbing, and a second screwgate/ring for the lower station.
Pro: Took a single set of nuts, and cams up to 2". I used an entire set of C3's, and two TCU's, and wished I'd had more...