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Muralla Grande
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Lawyers, Guns & Money 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: "Mark and Brian"
Page Views: 837
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Passed by on the approach to the longer Muralla Grande routes, this good clean 1-pitch face climb has enough cracks to keep it from getting scary. Well worth doing if you have extra time and a good weather forecast, but there's always that chance that some other climbers will walk on past, and start up your main plan for the day ahead of you.

Climb the clean face right of the big dihedral. Start near the corner and climb straight up past a lone bolt to reach a 2-bolt anchor. However, it's best to continue and do the whole climb as a single pitch. Soon above this anchor, you'll move right to a finger crack, passing the crux, then angle up and left to a flake. From the flake, go straight up to the upper 2-bolt anchor.

Location 

This route is the first clean face you come to on the approach down Chimney Canyon, at the SE end of Muralla Grande. This climb ascends a striking clean face right of a prominent right-facing corner. The rap slings/bolts are visible from below.

Descent: Rap the route, with one double rope rappel (35m), or 2 single rope rappels (25m+10m).

Protection 

Cams from TCUs to 2", with extras in the smaller sizes, nuts. Or whatever you have for Muralla Grande is probably ok.

Both sets of 2-bolt anchors are old buttonheads, someone with time and energy might want to replace them.


Comments on Lawyers, Guns & Money Add Comment
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By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Aug 8, 2011

Anchors need some love here. All 5 bolts are big buttonheads (3/8"?), and are solid(ish), but some are cratered out behind the hangers.
The tat is also sketchy at both rap stations. We didn't plan or expect to climb this route, so we didn't have any replacement materials the day we were there, sorry. Take new cord/webbing, and a second screwgate/ring for the lower station.

Pro: Took a single set of nuts, and cams up to 2". I used an entire set of C3's, and two TCU's, and wished I'd had more...
By Gary Lee Hicks
Aug 22, 2015

This sounds like a climb two of my great friends and partners put up decades ago. I have always wished to have repeated it.
I'll try to reach them and report back their names so it will be shown who did this climb. What amazes me is how the names of so many climbs continue to survive without the climbers names of the FA parties do not. hmmm
Most likely those friends who climbed w us, and can help verify if any info I derive from my research, will also post here :o)
...Maybe even one or both of the FA party whom I believe to be "Mark and Brian".

They deserve this ' mention' of an FA :|
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 22, 2015

The FA info on this route was not included in either the Hill or Schein Sandia guidebooks; I've updated with the info you provided. Most of the time, FA info was not omitted deliberately.
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