After climbing the first few pitches of Yard Art (mixed, 5.9), move belay 30 or so feet to a bolted belay ledge for Lawn Darts or the 4th pitch of Yard Art. From the belay, move up the slab on good friction and solid edges. Holds get a little thinner/more balancy as the angle increases. The crux is pulling a bulge 2/3 of the way up the route with good feet and thin holds. This is an incredible line with fantastic movement!
The route is located on Peek-A-Boo Tower just to the right of Duty Dome and Warrior Wall. Park at a small pull off just east of Icicle Buttress on the south (River) side of the road. Directly across the road is a steep trail leading past some boulders and directly up to Duty Dome Area (visible from the road). 10-15 minutes up the trail is a fork to left for Fish Wall and to the right for Duty Dome, Warrior, Peek-A-Boo and Keen Acres. Another 10 minutes is another fork to the right for Keen Acres. Stay left and should arrive to the start of Yard Art in about 30 minutes (from road). Trail is clear, but beyond Fish Wall the trail is steep and full of scree and kitty litter (not good for dogs).
Although this route is bolt protected with solid gear and good spacing (12-14 bolts with anchor), you will need to climb the first few pitches of Yard Art (mixed, 5.9, gear to 3inches) in order to reach the belay. Pay attention to rappels as some of the routes are long (120' plus).
From Lawn Darts, you either need doubles to make it back to the belay or you need to make a short rap towards Peek-A-Boo tower in order to find an intermediate rappel station (solid gear). The last rappel of Yard Art is 120' but you can down climb the gully just to the right of the belay ledge.
Pulling through the well protected crux
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Mar 28, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Awesome route, even if it was a humbling introduction to friction climbing. Pulling the roof is fun, and the subsequent desperation over the bulge is stimulating, and the route doesn't get much more positive after that. It's a fight to the top.
A 60m will not get you down. We used the rap bolts to the left of the roof. See Yard Art for more info on the next two rappels.
|By Steve Wolford|
May 27, 2013
Really fun route with a mystifying crux.