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 ADVANCED
Lookout Point
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 
A Ship Called Black Rock T 
An Act of Strange Boar T 
Baby Tapir T,S 
Below Lissen T,S 
Bobcat Cringe T 
Bowling to Biscuits T 
He is Truly a Great Airplane T 
House of the 7th Bobcat T 
Law and Order T 
Peanuts To Serve You T 
Purple Kool-Aid T 
Rice Krispies T 
Solitude T 

Law and Order 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Kelley & Matt Arksey
Page Views: 1,104
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Apr 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: The perfect layback section of Law and Order. (The...

Description 

Long corner system to the right of Rice Krispies and Spit.

Pitch 1 starts with face climbing on large holds (~20', and in need of cleaning as of 4/2012). Then one enters an incut, bolt-protected, right-leaning corner (~9+/10a). See the bottom red arrow in the picture. About 30' up the corner, the corner system splits into two. The original route went up the shallower left corner (~5.9) (next red arrow), which then traversed back into the right corner at a bolt (5.10) (see 3rd red arrow in photo). But staying in the right corner (green arrow) gives fun 5.9+ climbing, a mixture of face-climbing and thin jams. Where the two variations merge, the climbing goes up a slot with excellent pinch-grips on the rib (~5.8+). The pitch ends on the top of the pedestal, and has 3 bolts with chains.

Pitch 2 goes up the next corner on the left. It looks like a great corner, but as of July 10, 2012, it is a bit dirty and hard to protect. But you can instead do the pitch to the right, "A Ship Called Black Rock". See the separate description for this pitch.

The first pitch anchor is about 20' right of that for A group of mysteries of frenchwoman. With a short belay, one can move the anchor to toprope one or the other. To rap off with one rope, you might need to go to the Frenchwoman anchor and rap to the strange boar anchor. From the strange boar anchor, you can rap to the ground with one 60-m rope.


Location 

On the Lookout Point trail, continue about 40 feet past Baby tapir, Strange boar, and Rice krispies.


Protection 

Nut and cams to 2", 5-6 quickdraws for bolts.

If you stay to the right (the easier way), you clip 5 bolts at the bottom, and have the option of clipping 2 more up higher, though one is an old 1/4" next to a crack. If you go left, for the harder variation, you will clip one other bolt at the crux.



Photos of Law and Order Slideshow Add Photo
Josh climbing through the crux
Josh climbing through the crux
The red line and arrows show the original route (10c at upper traverse). Green line shows a more direct variation (10a).  <br /> <br />The crack on far left is Rice Krispies (10c). Spit (11d) is in the middle.
BETA PHOTO: The red line and arrows show the original route (1...
Josh climbing into the flare groove at the top of the pitch .
Josh climbing into the flare groove at the top of ...
Comments on Law and Order Add Comment
Show which comments
By derekpearson
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

1- 0 metolius
2- .3 BD cam
1- .4 BD
1- .5 BD
1- 1 BD
1- #6 BD nut

I sling all the pro on two foot slings and clip six bolts with draws . The fifth bolt I use a double runner . Some might think the crux is after the fifth bolt.

By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jul 28, 2013

Green variation bass offset, though bolt would be perfect! Very fun route

By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a great route. I had eyed it for a while, but was intimidated by the old books description. It is cleaner now, and the run-out has been bolted. At the Y in the road I went right. Lots of brambles, but good climbing. Small cams, brass nut, and then happy to clip the new bolt for the left variation. Above the climbing gets easier. I cleaned out the upper seam and found good blue alien placements.
There is a single bolt above and left of the anchor that is in line with a single rope rap to another good rap anchor of Mysterious French Woman.

By derekpearson
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yes the way I set it up is , when you thread the bolt also use the fallen tree . It should have another bolt but I didn't have one and the tree is perfect but not obvious because you are standing on it. originally I only used the tree or double rope rap from p1 law and order's finish.

By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I gave this route a scrub. the thin cracks protect the plants from being completely removed, would need Roundup. I removed much vegetation and dirt from the start, but ran out of time so sorry for dirty start, still better then it was.
There is a good horizontal crack before you pull up onto the ledge at the start before the bolt, .75, #1 or #2 camalot.
Removed two biners from the bolts, not sure if someone started up it thinking it all bolts and bailed, or if encountered too much plants, or rapped from top down route only to realize the rope did not reach the ground?

By Scott Goodwin
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 28, 2014

Overall, a great climb. Bottom is dirty as hell, and getting to the first bolt may be a bit scary, depending on how you're feeling. It's not terribly hard, but when you mantle up after the left traverse in the beginning, a fall would be really nasty.
The left variation is stellar. So much fun! My fat fingers were just able to slip under the finger crack to give me a beautiful lie back the whole way up.
I was able to rap down to the ledge about 10' below the first bolt on a 70m rope, and then scramble down the rest of the way. Definitely tie knots on the ends of your rope if you do this, cause you won't get all the way to the bottom.

By derekpearson
Jul 30, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I like to protect traverse with a .3 or .4 BD cam. Someone did some cleaning at the start its still dirty but it was worse a year ago. I did so much digging on the top and bottom before I placed the bolts. The lay back section was as is. Fun climb totally worth doing.

By derekpearson
Jul 30, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I just noticed Geoff your the one that cleaned at the start thanks!