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 ADVANCED
Lookout Point
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman 
A Ship Called Black Rock 
An Act of Strange Boar 
Baby Tapir 
Below Lissen 
Bobcat Cringe 
Bowling to Biscuits 
He is Truly a Great Airplane 
House of the 7th Bobcat 
Law and Order 
Peanuts To Serve You 
Purple Kool-Aid 
Rice Krispies 
Solitude 

Law and Order 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Kelley & Matt Arksey
Page Views: 783
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Apr 22, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: The perfect layback section of Law and Order. (The...

Description 

Long corner system to the right of Rice Krispies and Spit.

Pitch 1 starts with face climbing on large holds (~20', and in need of cleaning as of 4/2012). Then one enters an incut, bolt-protected, right-leaning corner (~9+/10a). See the bottom red arrow in the picture. About 30' up the corner, the corner system splits into two. The original route went up the shallower left corner (~5.9) (next red arrow), which then traversed back into the right corner at a bolt (5.10) (see 3rd red arrow in photo). But staying in the right corner (green arrow) gives fun 5.9+ climbing, a mixture of face-climbing and thin jams. Where the two variations merge, the climbing goes up a slot with excellent pinch-grips on the rib (~5.8+). The pitch ends on the top of the pedestal, and has 3 bolts with chains.

Pitch 2 goes up the next corner on the left. It looks like a great corner, but as of July 10, 2012, it is a bit dirty and hard to protect. But you can instead do the pitch to the right, "A Ship Called Black Rock". See the separate description for this pitch.

The first pitch anchor is about 20' right of that for A group of mysteries of frenchwoman. With a short belay, one can move the anchor to toprope one or the other. To rap off with one rope, you might need to go to the Frenchwoman anchor and rap to the strange boar anchor. From the strange boar anchor, you can rap to the ground with one 60-m rope.


Location 

On the Lookout Point trail, continue about 40 feet past Baby tapir, Strange boar, and Rice krispies.


Protection 

Nut and cams to 2", 5-6 quickdraws for bolts.

If you stay to the right (the easier way), you clip 5 bolts at the bottom, and have the option of clipping 2 more up higher, though one is an old 1/4" next to a crack. If you go left, for the harder variation, you will clip one other bolt at the crux.



Photos of Law and Order Slideshow Add Photo
Josh climbing through the crux
Josh climbing through the crux
The red line and arrows show the original route (10c at upper traverse). Green line shows a more direct variation (10a).  <br /> <br />The crack on far left is Rice Krispies (10c). Spit (11d) is in the middle.
BETA PHOTO: The red line and arrows show the original route (1...
Josh climbing into the flare groove at the top of the pitch .
Josh climbing into the flare groove at the top of ...
Comments on Law and Order Add Comment
Show which comments
By derekpearson
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

1- 0 metolius
2- .3 BD cam
1- .4 BD
1- .5 BD
1- 1 BD
1- #6 BD nut

I sling all the pro on two foot slings and clip six bolts with draws . The fifth bolt I use a double runner . Some might think the crux is after the fifth bolt.

By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jul 28, 2013

Green variation bass offset, though bolt would be perfect! Very fun route

By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This is a great route. I had eyed it for a while, but was intimidated by the old books description. It is cleaner now, and the run-out has been bolted. At the Y in the road I went right. Lots of brambles, but good climbing. Small cams, brass nut, and then happy to clip the new bolt for the left variation. Above the climbing gets easier. I cleaned out the upper seam and found good blue alien placements.
There is a single bolt above and left of the anchor that is in line with a single rope rap to another good anchor

By derekpearson
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Yes the way I set it up is , when you thread the bolt also use the fallen tree . It should have another bolt but I didn't have one and the tree is perfect but not obvious because you are standing on it. originally I only used the tree or double rope rap from p1 law and order's finish.