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Lavender Days 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Matt Lavender (1993)
Page Views: 919
Submitted By: ---- on Jun 29, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Upon first inspection this route might look a little silly because it has a 30 foot lip traverse. Get on the route and you'll see that the route definitely takes the line of least resistance and the traverse is actually quite complex and fun.

Start with three bolts of easy blocky climbing. The first hard moves involve technical movement around a roof. Get creative by knee barring or heel hooking around this deceptively tricky roof.

Once established on the lip move right between slopers and good jugs. Don't be afraid to lead with your feet. Once you reach the base of the hanging arete you are rewarded with 90% recovery at an interesting rest.

There are two options for making it through the beginning crux section of the arete. You can slap directly up the arete for a couple hard moves or you can move further right through a selection of slopers. The more direct version could be reachy for anyone with a wingspan less than 5'8". Which ever version you choose, do be careful not to land in the pine tree.

The rest of the overhanging arete contains thoughtful movement between deep pockets. A few more decent rests diminish the pump heading to the chains.

Overall this is one of the most unique sport routes in the NRG region. With the recent addition of long fixed cable draws on the traverse the experience has been made much more convenient and enjoyable.

Location 

This route is hard to miss, located just left of Puppy Chow. It travels up the left side of the giant roof.

Protection 

12 bolts + anchor. Three long cable draws on the traverse section. Take a long draw for the first bolt on the arete.


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By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 20, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

the 100% rest is a bit deceiving. ...maybe I didnt find the 'sweet spot' though. I found myself bearhugging/forearm smearing a ledge, with a slight amount of left knee bar.... my forearms could recover some, but holy shit did it exhaust every other muscle in my body. What do other people do for the 'rest'?
By ----
May 21, 2013

I wish I could provide better beta, but it has been a while since I did the route. I seem to recall wrapping my leg(s) around a ledge with some degree of knee bar, kind of like you described. It was kind of a lay down beached whale type of maneuver. It was basically a no hands rest, but could be sort of taxing on your core I suppose. Tell you what, I'll drop 10%.
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 23, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

haha, ill take it :) sounds like were on the same page, 'no hands' but still 4+ points of contact.
By ----
Nov 20, 2013

I just revisited the route yesterday and had a chance to investigate the rest. The following is detailed beta on how to get the no-hands rest:

Just before the first bolt on the arete, place your right hip toward the wall, lay both legs on the ledge, and engage two heel-toe cams in an undercling feature. Your right knee should automatically slot into a knee bar. Hands can go on a handle bar jug, or you can let go entirely and hang fully on your legs (Similar to the rest at the top of Apollo Reed).

In my opinion it is a very good rest, about as good as a rest can be without it being a sit down ledge.