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 ADVANCED
Flavin Haven
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
C-4 Yourself S 
Caldera S 
Gunned Down by Goofy S 
Honey Badger Don't Care S 
Jaws of Life S 
Lava Haul S 
Nice Jugs S 
Tore Down S 

Lava Haul 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kelly Cordner
Page Views: 1,196
Submitted By: Bruce Willey on Jun 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Description 

Excellent climb, one of the best of its grade in the Gorge. Mantle up past two bolts heading right to a wide step-across to the left. Crimp and smear up a slabby section to a small ramp to the left. Lieback around and up to the dihedral and then straight up to the anchors.

Location 

Upper Gorge Flavin Haven

Protection 

11 bolts


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By B.S. Luther
From: Walnut, CA
Apr 4, 2011

Highly recommended climb. If your accustomed to vertical face climbing like me, this is a really interesting foray into angles of all kinds.
By kelly r cordner
Apr 18, 2012

Lava Haul was extended to higher anchors. I counted 16 bolts. Use a 70 meter rope. The grade is still 10a. This route was originally set as a rope solo ground up using a soloist. The lower anchors were used to accommodate the shorter ropes of 90's. you can get to the original chain anchors (maybe a 10b move) and set up a top rope on Caldera with a 70m rope. Those anchors were used to set the "point full" variation on Caldera.
By Xtine
From: Sierra Eastside, CA
Apr 12, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

One of the best 10a's I've ever climbed, thanks Kelly. Quite an adventure with the slab, liebacking, crimps/edges, traversing, crack, jugs, high stepping, mantling....use almost all on this route. And love that it's long. Bring an extendable to prevent rope drag on the 5th or so bolt.
By kozzybear
From: Livingston, MT
Apr 14, 2014

Bring 17 draws if you want to clip them all.
By tahoemnts
From: Truckee, California
Nov 10, 2014

NOTE: This route is 17 bolts not 13. You need a 70 meter rope to lower off anchors. 60 meter rope will not get you to the ground as I experienced this issue yesterday. It appears the route described in the latest Gorge guide is out of date.