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 ADVANCED
a. The Uberfall
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Nice 5.9 Climb 
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Sudoriferous 
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Trapped Like a Rat 
Uberfall Descent 
Walter Mitty 
Unsorted Routes:

Laurel 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Thornton Reed, Norton Smithe, Lester Germer 1950s
Page Views: 4,649
Submitted By: Adam Catalano on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Laurel is the left crack with climber at the ancho...
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start at a thin crack on the left side of a block about 35' right of Horseman.

A bouldery start stumps many beginners. The moves (and the gear) is all there, but both can be tricky.

The climbing eases back to 5.6 after the opening moves. The crack climbing is supplemented by many face holds as well. Enjoy the incredible fist-jam move just before the finish.

Bolted anchor at the top.


Location 

There are two cracks splitting a block to the right of Horseman. The crack on the left is Laurel.


Protection 

Standard rack, including a 3" piece. The two-bolt anchor on top can be accessed by the 5.0 chimney to the left.



Photos of Laurel Slideshow Add Photo
Laurel.  Follow the crack.  Bouldery start at the bottom.
BETA PHOTO: Laurel. Follow the crack. Bouldery start at the ...
laurel first pitch
laurel first pitch
on Laurel
on Laurel
start of laurel
start of laurel
Ryan Brink nearing the top.
Ryan Brink nearing the top.
I got a red c3 in as my first piece, which wasn't bomber, but pretty solid.then there's plenty of gear the rest of the way up.
BETA PHOTO: I got a red c3 in as my first piece, which wasn't ...
Comments on Laurel Add Comment
Show which comments
By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
May 13, 2007

I saw chalk where people had started to the left, but you can just climb it directly and it's no harder than 5.7.

By mirandas-daddy
From: Carlisle, PA
Sep 1, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

What a great 1st route for my first outside TR. The close to the deck crux made feel like I was bouldering at the gym . . . it felt like home. I would add that I made the offset at the top so much harder than it had to be, note to newbies, learn to crack climb :-) Way fun send!!!

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Aug 10, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

First 5.7 @ the Gunks, felt more comfortable climbing straight to the good ledge instead of fiddling with gear at the bottom.

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Mar 25, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

The trees are gone :(

By JSH
Administrator
Jun 23, 2010

Oh, the things that used to be: once upon a time, a piton protected the first moves. I even fell on it once. It's gone, but several different small cams will keep you safe off the deck (and it's a good idea to use them). There used to be a tree at the top, then came the bolts, then the tree went. Alas!

This is one of my favorite first-lead-of-the-season routes, just to see (or shock) what's in my lead head.

By rogerbenton
May 21, 2012

The "hard moves" to start are really one awkward move to a gear placing stance.

Very nice route, and the fist jam at the top is an awesome last move.

By Medic741
From: Pittsford, New York
Aug 5, 2012

This is a great climb. Bring a c3 #2 if you have one, haven't found anything else that'll fit the first placement. Took 2 falls before redpointing... :p great climb, don't miss it! And TR'ing this one is really easy fyi.

By Logan Schiff
From: NY, NY
Aug 7, 2012

Fun lead though start is definitely polished.

By K Baumgartner
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Fun lead for the grade. Crux was getting off the ground with extremely polished footholds. You have the choice of putting in pro off the ground and taking away a good hold or no pro at the bottom and your choice of holds.