This south facing cliff offers mainly 5.12 sport climbing on high quality stone. The white rock is smooth to the eye but somehow very very sticky for the hands and shoes. The main section of the wall is unique with sloppers, handjams, and sidepulls on face climbs. There are also some classic cracks so bring a rack too.
Take HWY 27 North to Dayton and turn left at second red light, which will be north 378 (South Market street) about .4 of a mile and turn left on Delaware Ave (just across from Robinson Manufacturing Co.). After turning left on Delaware Ave follow it for approx. a mile and cross hwy 30 and continue on for 1.3 miles and you will see small white church on right called Bethel Holiness church, entrance on left. Look for Laurel-Snow sign. Follow gravel road to parking lot and you will see the trail head and Kiosk. Now hike along the wide trail next to the kiosk. Look at the map too. This hike is roughly 45-60min but not brutal at all. You will hike straight on flat ground for the majority. Then you will see a brown sign to cut 'right, back and uphill' to laurel/snow. Follow uphill and you will see another brown sign to split snow and laruel. Follow the laurel falls arrow through giant boulders and swichbacks all the way up to the cliff.
The routes are 100yd+ left of the falls. Once you see the falls, follow the trail left until you stand below bolts and cracks.
Start to the left of the overhanging prow/roof feature. Climb two bolts (on Next To The Last Boy Scout 5.12) then break right for the third bolt. A traversing right throw near the third bolt to a big hidden jug will set you up to continue into the steepness. Now climb straight up for the fourth bolt and on. Stay several feet left of the prow the whole time and follow the natural line into slopers and a sloping vertical crack crux....[more]Browse More Classics in TN