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Laughing Man 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rick Pleiss, 1970s
Page Views: 1,833
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Juan Luna pulling the roof.

Description 

This climb is a tough one. Hard to climb and harder to onsight. Be ready to do insecure moves or get pumped stupid trying to find "somethng good" and then do the hard crux insecure AND tired.

The access trail for Laughing Man is about an 8-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 4-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, go right to find the route.

Just to the right of the more popular Welcome to the Gunks locate a decent-sized roof about 7-10 meters off the ground.

2011: A block has broken off at the top of the initial slab section for the right-hand start variation of Welcome to the Gunks, which is also the start of Laughing Man

P1: Climb up to and right through this roof (crux). I think I recall a good horizontal cam for pro, but falling might produce a nasty swing, so place this thoughtfully. Once above the roof and standing upright again, climb up and slightly left into a short left-facing corner. From there, climb mostly right (practically a traverse) along some decent holds, then up and left on a crack line toward some small trees. 5.11b PG, 80'.

There is a rap station at mid-wall at the top of the climb, but I finished on Welcome to the Gunks.


Protection 

Some cams and nuts. As I recall it, the crux was off of a solid hand-sized cam in a horizontal, but also as I recall it, you could take a pretty good-sized fall on this, swinging and probably bending up the wires. Watch the sling or biners near the edge!



Photos of Laughing Man Slideshow Add Photo
chris vultaggio on laughing man
BETA PHOTO: chris vultaggio on laughing man
Juan underneath the roof.
Juan underneath the roof.
Tony Bubb hears the punch-line on 'Laughing Man' (11b, PG-13). A was told this was 5.10a... Photo by Michelle Moffat, 10/03.
Tony Bubb hears the punch-line on 'Laughing Man' (...
Tony Bubb about ready to get the joke on 'Laughing Man' (11b, PG-13). A was told this was 5.10a... Photo by Michelle Moffat, 10/03.
Tony Bubb about ready to get the joke on 'Laughing...
Lubos on Laughing Man
BETA PHOTO: Lubos on Laughing Man
Comments on Laughing Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By Denis O'Connor
May 21, 2007

One of the guidebooks says the way Juan is doing it in the photo is a 5.10 variation. It says the 5.11 way is a bit right of that. We couldn't get up anything over there, so we did it this way.

By chris_vultaggio
Jun 20, 2010

There is a way to get up right, which feels pretty solid for the grade.

5.8/9 section below the roof is pretty R, but the crux is super protectable with hand size cams.

By Alex Chenvainu
From: Greater NYC area
Jun 7, 2014

I believe the Williams guide describes traversing either left or right as 5.10 variants. My understanding of the proper line (asked locals) is to go straight up staying close to the vertical seam without traversing at the lip of the roof. A bit contrived--the left line actually makes the most sense to me, but I am happy to have done it both ways.