Latex Lover  5.11a

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Type:  Sport, 85 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Tony Robinson Season:  Spring / Fall / Winter Submitted By:  Jason Young on Nov 10, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Moving through the business of "Latex Lover".

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Description 

For some, the crux of this route could be negotiating the offwidth/slab at the start. The face holds on this section seemed very polished. Although it was challenging climbing I felt it detracted a little from the quality of the route. Other than that, this is a fine route to get on! In reality, the upper steep section is more likely to thwart most onsight/redpoint attempts if this grade is near one's limit.

Past the offwidth/slab is a series of ledges with steep, blocky face climbing between them. Rest on the last big ledge (a 5.10b variation called "Left Hand Lover" moves left at this point) before the much steeper stuff and fire up through it to one last ledge from which the anchors can be clipped via an awkward reach to the left.

Reading the crux hand sequence can be helpful as there is a hold that seemed difficult to match on. Other than that, expect very large and positive holds!

Location 

Located another couple of hundred yards past (to climber's left) of the route "Flip".

Protection 

Eight bolts to cold-shut anchors.

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Starting up "Latex Lover".