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 ADVANCED
Above Anthrax
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Climb with a View T 
Late Night Chalk Show S 
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Late Night Chalk Show 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Keith Hengen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,031
Submitted By: computerskillclimbing. on Apr 10, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Closer look.

Description 

Scramble up the boulders to the right of the main block and pre-clip the first bolt from there. This route is short and very intense - significantly harder than Whiskey a go go (ultra classic...), but shorter. Grading is difficult due to the length, yet the crux (moving from the second to third bolt) is both sequence specific and powerful. Flex your huge muscles really hard and follow the arrette to chains. Then go have a beer.


Location 

This route is the right hand side of the block that follows the obvious angled arrette. On the right side of the upper arrette is an aesthetic finger crack. Lower off of the chains or untie and walk off the back side.


Protection 

All bolts.



Photos of Late Night Chalk Show Slideshow Add Photo
Hot Remo action!
Hot Remo action!
It took a few sessions with Nathan, Kael and Kelsen to figure out the sequence, then another couple sessions to actually stick the crux moves.
It took a few sessions with Nathan, Kael and Kelse...
Vince.
Vince.
Top half of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Top half of the route.
Vinny about to pull over the corner.
Vinny about to pull over the corner.
Vinny hitting the good hold.
Vinny hitting the good hold.
Comments on Late Night Chalk Show Add Comment
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By computerskillclimbing.
Apr 10, 2010

If you've already done Whiskey or are a strong boulderer (but stay away from endurance routes), let me encourage you to get on this climb. It's somewhere between a boulder problem and a proper route, but it's hard, aesthetic and fun nonetheless. The grade is a suggestion at this point and is based on Whiskey as a .13a.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 11, 2010

Wow, nice job dude!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 11, 2010

Nice work Keith!!! So this was your little secret, looks great.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 11, 2010

sounds delightfully short!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 20, 2010

This is a really cool feature. Vinny and I were able to figure out most of the moves, but the two move crux sequence is HARD! After that its fun and bouldery to the top. Stoked on this new project, thanks Keith.

By computerskillclimbing.
Apr 20, 2010

Hell yeah! I met up with Steve Tucker on Sunday and we're both eyeing two more lines. He's going to bolt a cool (big!) roof, and I'm bolting a giant fin this week. Both are tall, gorgeous lines and it's surprising they haven't been climbed yet.

So, new digs at Necedah this summer.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Nov 3, 2010
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Awesome line Keith! super fun classic, well worth the time on it. In a way its a wee bit of a one move wonder, but it didnt take away from its aesthetic at all.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 4, 2010

Yes Melin! Nice work.

By computerskillclimbing.
Nov 6, 2010

Travis - I'm stoked that you got it! It's certainly one hard move, but I was excited to find something new to climb. Keep crushing.

- k