Late For Supper 5.12
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| Type: | TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Norm Schenk ? |
| Submitted By: | CaptainMo on Jun 14, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Climbs
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Description Climb straight up and right from center of overhanging buldge. Start on tiny crimpers to undercling, then up through some good holds, then move out up and right on small holds to a big move to a horizontal, Pull lip above horizontal to easy slab climbing to anchors.
Location Starts on two small crimpers in the middle of the buldge.
Protection Top rope - This line used to have a bolt to protect a ground fall but it was chopped.
| Comments on Late For Supper |
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By Will Starks Jul 29, 2011 rating: 5.12a/b
| Morgan, when did Matt Wilder climb this route? I am not sure who the first ascensionist is, but I know that it was repeated in 1991 and already had a name, Late For Supper. It was considered 5.11+/5.12- at the time. |
By CaptainMo Administrator Aug 21, 2011
| I've updated the info... thnx. I was given second hand info and was told Matt had worked it out a number of years ago when he was working the V12/13 on the main roof at Samp Mortar. I was also told going straight up on the crimps and out right was in the 13 range with the move from crimps to undercling going somewhere in the V7 range (From my experience that seemed pretty accurate def harder then V5). The info was not accurate so thank you for the correction. |
By Will Starks Oct 10, 2011 rating: 5.12a/b
| Sent it last week, and climbed it two more times that day to see how I felt about its true difficulty. Really nice climbing after the hard start; I was surprised at how enjoyable a route it is. I don't boulder so I can't comment on the difficulty of the start on that scale, but I definitely recommend trying this route with a static rope (to avoid hitting the rocks below when attempting the opening moves). |
By JJJameson Apr 6, 2012
| I climbed this in the '89- '91 era, it had indeed already been climbed and named, it was a guy named Norman, or Norm who had done it (that I know of for sure), along with a partner who I think was named Chris (Pappas?). There may have been others of course, but I know of these guys for sure, as we exchanged war stories about it. Use of a static line is a good idea for sure, at the very minimum you should pre-load a dynamic rope to get some of the stretch out. You can - and will- hit the ground and big rock at the base if you pop from anything below a solid stance at the undercling. |
By scott rourke Sep 3, 2012
| Someone once told me in the early eighties that this was put up by Norm Schenk (not sure about the last name spelling). |
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