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Last trip from the Front Range
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By Dylan Hettinger
From Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2012
ouray, I think

If you were a mediocre climber who liked crimpy routes, where would you go for a last weekend trip before moving on from Colorado?

Sport or trad, single or multipitch, even bouldering heaven forbid. I've been to most of the major areas, but tend to prefer the little gems that get overlooked.

Suggested areas?


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Eldo or some of the more vertical Splatte stuff.
If Evans is still Hospitable, go climb Cary Granite. The crux traverse is crimpy...


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Sep 11, 2012
Sure, I can belay

The Monastery


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By Tom Ormond
Sep 11, 2012
chicken suit

crimpy is shelf rd. stay in the shade.


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By Evan S
From Erie, CO
Sep 11, 2012
Me, of course

Make it easy on yourself, just go to South St. Vrain Canyon up from Lyons. Tons, and I mean tons of climbing, lots of it crimpy slabs, and about 1/10 of the people you'll find in Boulder Canyon, 20 min south.

Or Unaweep if you feel the need to drive across the state for some reason.


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By Dankasaurus
From Lyons, CO
Sep 11, 2012

Gnar approaches, rattlers, lions, poison ivy, and friable rock lacking chalked holds make the Vrain less desirable. No camping either. Sorry.


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By BarcaRules/Juice Crew
Sep 11, 2012

If it's just a day trip, The Palace outside of Fort Collins is nice single pitch sport, and right now the river is low.


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By AndyMac
From Center, CO
Sep 11, 2012

Penitente? I think crimpy and little are the exact description of the routes. Great setting and some great routes.


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By Evan S
From Erie, CO
Sep 11, 2012
Me, of course

AndyMac wrote:
Penitente? I think crimpy and little are the exact description of the routes. Great setting and some great routes.


Do you really live in Center?


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By Dan G0D5H411
From Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 11, 2012
Dan on Hurricane

For moderate, crimpy, sport routes Shelf Road and Devils Head are great options. Shelf is starting to come into season (although you might want to chase the shade) while Devils Head is starting to show the Autumn Aspen colors. This wall may be beyond your definition of "moderate" but it lives up to it's name: www.mountainproject.com/v/the-crimpfest-wall/105744882


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Sep 11, 2012
Stabby

Looking at your profile give this a shot if you can before you move:
The UAC
Still obscure for now, the routes are mostly crimpy too.

But as for the weekend getaway, get up to Devils Head THIS WEEKEND (party) if you can.


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By Dylan Hettinger
From Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2012
ouray, I think

Awesome, thanks all. That gives me a lot to look at.


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By AndyMac
From Center, CO
Sep 12, 2012

Evan S wrote:
Do you really live in Center?

Yep, the center of the universe I believe. I'm surprised it remains undiscovered!
There's been a decent bit of development in the last few years here. About 20-30 new bolted routes just this year and tons of new boulders (that Bob Murray and Phillip Benningfield have surely climbed already).


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