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 ADVANCED
Last Temptation Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charlie's Angel S,TR 
Chimps in Negligee T,S,TR 
Death & Taxes TR 
Go I Know Not To Wither T,S 
Live Monkey Brain S,TR 
Lobotomy S,TR 
Sunset Arete S 
Unsorted Routes:

Last Temptation Cliff  


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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Sep 19, 2005
Forecast:
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Clear
67° | 48°
Clear
58° | 45°
Rain
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Rain
51° | 49°
Chance of Rain
56° | 48°
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BETA PHOTO: First view of Last Tempation cliff, right 1/2 side...

Description 

Last Temptation is a small crag that is found on the way to Goat Rock. The cliffs face west and are in full sun most of the day making it a fairly hot place to climb. There are approximately 8 routes here, mostly sport, but some routes do require trad gear. Anchors are found on top of most routes. An easy decent follows a trail down the left side of the cliffs. Other guidebooks do mention snakes but we didn't see any on this trip.

Getting There 

From the Castle Rock State Park parking lot, follow the trail that leads down towards the Waterfalls lookout platform. Once you cross the little stream don't follow the trail leading down left to the waterfall but follow the trail that goes up the hill and to the left. After about 5 minutes the trail will lead out of the trees and as soon as you are out in the open, look right and up. The right side of the Last Temptation cliffs will be about 40' above you. A path leads up towards the left side of the cliffs from the patch of trees ahead.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.0 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Last Temptation Cliff:
Go I Know Not To Wither   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Live Monkey Brain   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Last Temptation Cliff

Featured Route For Last Temptation Cliff
Shows the 4 bolts and approximate route of Last Te...

Go I Know Not To Wither 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : Last Temptation Cliff
This is a great route with a surprise start. I thought it would be strictly a face route viewing from the approach path but there are several good hard moves inching up the crack to reach the second bolt. Once clipped to the second bolt, the route moves onto the face on small but secure holds. Clipping the third bolt is a bit nervy but not too bad. Up the face to the overhang where you will be glad to get in some trad gear. A fun, not so obvious move gets you on top of the block and then on...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Last Temptation Cliff
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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Apr 25, 2010
Bolted routes from left to right on the main Last Temptation cliffband:

1. Lobotomy, 5.11d. One bolt about 10 feet up, two closely spaced bolts at a big roof about 40 feet up, two-bolt anchor.

2. Chimps in Negligee, 5.9, 3 bolts, two-bolt anchor (shared with Charlie's Angel)

3. Charlie's Angel, 5.11b, 5 bolts, two-bolt anchor (shared with Chimps in Negligee).

4. Go I Know Not Whither, 5.10d, 4 bolts, two-bolt anchor (bring cams, finger or hand sized).

5. Live Monkey Brain, 5.11a, 5 bolts, two-bolt anchor.