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Last Rites 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: KC Baum- roped solo
Season: Shade till 2
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Skyeler Congdon on Aug 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Last Rites sits in the center of the photo. It top...

Description 

"Bold and intimidating, this route is sure to please the hardcore crack climber."

This is a sustained and serious route. It was a classic line when it went up nearly 20 years ago. But since then, the bat guano Baum mentions has become HUGE! It has caused the lower third of the route to become... slick... bring some hand sanitizer.

The route itself climbs a giant open book corner for 200 feet. There are 4 cruxes: baggy fingers down low, a rest then a stout OW before the belay. Next, a bouldery throw into a steep finger lock right off the belay. Finally, the psychological crux: 20+ feet of full body stems with one marginal piece of pro- a red camalot. From a final rest there is a choice of 10 fingers in a left facing corner or a 9+ splitter on the right.


Location 

The corner sits about 150ft left from the quarry. There are the remains of a very old wooden ladder at the base.


Protection 

Doubles up to a #3, and one #4. A #1 Camalot is essential to safely protect the stem crux.






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