Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lost Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baptist on the Rampage S,TR 
Blades of Steel S 
Come and Get Your Love S 
Crack a Lo Lo T,S 
Drop Dead T 
Dutchmen, The T,S 
Fear of the Right T,S 
For A Rocker T 
Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) T 
Hand Crack T 
Jack's Slap S 
Last Rites T 
Lost My Religion T,S 
Made in the Shade S 
OU Mountaineers T 
Rap Bolters from Hell S 
Slime of the Century S 
Steep Show T 
Thankful Arete T 
Tied to the Whipping Post S 
UnNamed T 
Unsorted Routes:

Last Rites 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: F.A. Keith Egan, Mark Johnson (1981)
Season: Spring, Fall, Summer
Page Views: 467
Submitted By: Daniel S on Feb 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Picture shows Jordan about to tackle the mantel mo...

  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The route has two cruxes that stump most people (that I've climbed with). First is getting onto the steeply sloping ramp just after starting the climb. You basically have to slither yourself onto it until you grab a great hold, otherwise be spit off. The second crux is the mantel move off the horn that forms a small roof (that is protected by slinging the horn). Blow this mantel and find yourself falling backwards and knocking your head on the ramp below. The rest of the climb is strait forward consisting of moderate crack climbing with some lay-back moves and a short chimney section to top out. The route protects really well with the exception of the mantle move where you whish you could put a piece above you.

    Location 

    Route is located Right and up hill of Blades of Steel on the ENE corner of Lost Dome. Double rappel with two 50 m ropes.

    Protection 

    Cams, nuts, hexes, tri-cams, and a four foot sling to sling the horn. Sling the route well or face bad rope drag. Shares 2 bolt anchors with baptist on a rampage.


    Photos of Last Rites Slideshow Add Photo
    M.G. on the mantle move at the second roof.
    M.G. on the mantle move at the second roof.

    Comments on Last Rites Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jon McCartie
    From: Edmond, OK
    Oct 17, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    I forgot a #4 Camalot at the end of the lieback section (just before the chimney) on Saturday, October 16, 2010.

    If anyone grabs it, let me know. Much thanks.
    By Jon McCartie
    From: Edmond, OK
    Oct 17, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    A yellow C3 cam fits perfectly inside the horn. I slung it first, then realized the C3 would fit, which allowed for that move to be a little better protected.
    By Tony Mayse
    Jul 15, 2012

    It has just been brought to my attention that the current Oklahoma Select 2010 only has quickdraws for gear beta on this route? The 2004 Ok Select called for cams to #4. Not sure how this beta was omitted in the current guide.

    ~Tony Mayse