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This is on Alimony Wall. Park at the Painted Wall overlook. Walk a couple hundred yards further along the road (southwest?) and look for a narrow gully just to the left (climber's) of the wall. It is easy and recommended to take the short walk out towards the Painted Wall overlook and scope both the approach and the climb (it will be on your left). The climb is straightforward and mostly good crack climbing.
P1: 5.7, 90 feet. Dirty chimney, the climbing improves as you go. Belay at the base of the big crack.
P2: 5.9, 100 feet. Good crack with some wideness, harder than it looks. Belay at ledge.
P3: 5.11a?, 80 feet. Crux pitch, great hand crack to offwidth, back to hand crack. The tough part is short, maybe 5ft. Belay at cool ledge.
P4: 5.8, 100ft. Two options that meet after 20 feet in the corner. Mantle out of the corner and continue up an unprotected but relatively short and easy (5.7) chimney. The walk off is short and flat.
The guidebook mentions a 5.8 face option to avoid the crux. We checked this out and it may well be 5.8, but it should probably be called 5.8 R since it would involve traversing 10 or 15 feet away from the crack. I'd recommend the offwidth even if (like us) you can't climb overhanging 4 inch cracks. Its short and well protected with some wider gear.
Be careful with the approach - you can screw it up. If you head down the main gully dividing the Alimony Wall and the Painted Wall overlook, you will encounter a rappel (2 stoppers and a biner) and you will end up 200 feet of 5.7 bushes below the climb.
Singles below #0.75 Camalot will suffice. Extra hand sized pieces and 2 or 3 offwidth pieces in the #3.5 to #4.5 Camalot range. We placed one stopper, and you could probably leave them at home.
The excellent 5.9 crack on pitch 2.
The 3rd pitch, just below the 5.11 section. The 5...
The Hanging Chad celebrates on the rim.
Alimony Wall with descent gully.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 15, 2005
There are rap anchors and chains above this wall. A bit hard to find but they are hidden under a cairn out towards the finish point of Alimony Wall route. Just climbers left of the finish. Super bomber and a bit better than the quick hike in.
|By S. Stember|
From: St. Paul, MN
Jun 19, 2007
This route can be done in three pitches if you link P1 and P2 together. Also, if you cannot find the rap anchors mentioned below, just set your own anchors in the wide crack at the top of the route (the crack is about 6 ft. from the edge)and rap down. This crack protects with three #4 camalots to set a rap/toprope. The right side variation at the beginning of the last pitch goes at 5.9 and is an ackward wide crack.
|By John Peterson|
Sep 28, 2010
Not really a 5.11 route - very consistent at 5.8 - 5.9 except one short section. We didn't do the 5.8 variation but that would make the route 5.9.
One way to do the approach is to rap in (60m) and leave the line there, cleaning it on the way out. The bolts hide under a small pile of rocks.
We aided the crux (just a couple of pulls on the gear - #5 Camalot helps here). The 5.8 variation looked pretty mellow but doesn't seem to get any traffic. Probably not R rated but a bit sporty.
A good route that will get better as things get cleaned up (especially the 1st pitch).
|By Skyeler Congdon|
From: his van
May 8, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R
Stellar climbing. We climbed a crack system left of the chimney start as described in the guidebook and this was the only mediocre section of climbing. From pitch two on, the rock is quality granite and the climbing is sustained at the grade.
The 5.8 face climbing variation to the wide crux is great but dangerous, comparable in difficulty and consequence to the first pitch of Journey Home- maybe a little more mellow.
Consider linking this route with Alimony and even Steppin' Out. We did Alimony, ate lunch, and then did Last Payment. Highly recommended for a hot, casual day in the Black.