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Last of the Wild Ones Variation 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Ryan Minton on Aug 7, 2011
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Potential road closures in winter. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin this route by ascending on small holds past bolts on the face before a small traversing move onto a big, flat hold on the arete. Continue moving up the arete with big moves past another bolt, then back onto the face where the difficulty eases and a small crack system is encountered. Climb this crack/face on small to medium gear, exiting with a thoughtful move onto the ledge above, where it shares anchors with Theoretically.

Please note: this is the lower, moderate half of the Last of the Wild Ones. The full pitch continues around to the right of the Theoretically ledge and up steepening terrain past more bolts with difficult, powerful moves, trending back left to the top of the prow above the ledge. The route in it's entirety receives a rating in the 12b/c category.

It is also an option to continue up the final corner of "Tough Trip Through Paradise" as an addition to the lower half of the pitch. This would register the pitch at mid-range 5.11.


Location 

This route ascends the face/arete just down and around the corner from Theoretically.


Protection 

Quickdraws for bolts, small to medium gear for the last half of the route. The end of this pitch may feel a tad runout, but some thoughtful cam placements can deliver some added safety.

If continuing up for the full pitch, bring more quickdraws for bolts. Combining the lower section with the upper portion of "Tough Trip" necessitates another draw for the pin and some small to medium nuts and cams.



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