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Wizard, The 

Last Lonely Eagle 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Argueso (1989)
Season: winter
Page Views: 928
Submitted By: Adam on Dec 27, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: Last Lonely Eagle (February 2014)

Description 

Steep face moves get you to a huge ledge and then 12 more feet get you to the chains.


Location 

Center of the main wall. Left side of the big wall that comes closest to the trail. This route and Where the Buffalo Roam are the only climbs on this section of face.


Protection 

bolt/chains



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By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 5, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Using the arete just below the big ledge bypasses what I think is the crux, downgrading this climb to 10b.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 6, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Somewhat difficult crux section leaving the horizontal crack prior to gaining the large ledge - don't stop at the ledge the route goes another 3 bolts to the anchor.

9 bolts plus anchor

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Dec 16, 2007

The crux is definitely the crimps between the big horizontal crack and the ledge. I would believe 10b with the arete and 10d with the crimps. It's also really fun moves above the ledge!

By Luke Bertelsen
Apr 7, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

to not use the arete is silly. you can reach it without ever leaving the bolt line.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 16, 2009

Have to agree with Luke on this one. A number of routes here are like that. The top of Fourplay is another one. The 5.10 to the left of Fourplay, the 12 to the left of that just to name a few. Doesn't really matter. If you find yourself asking if something is off route then the line is probably a little contrived. Doesn't really matter but it may change the grade a little as it does on this climb and the others I mentioned.

By Eric Sophiea
Dec 15, 2013

Whether the Arete is on or not, people use it based on the chalk marks over there... I cleaned a huge (200 lbs) block off of it right where it joins the ledge that was clunking when I stepped on it. Crashed right down where the belayer would have been. There may still be some loose stuff there that will come out after the next rain.

By Jimbo
Dec 18, 2013

Keep up the good work Eric!!

By Luke Bertelsen
Feb 21, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Heads up y'all. One of the handholds before the main ledge on this climb came off this week. It doesn't seem needed as it is where the climb veers left toward the arete, but its worth a mention.

Also, there is a pile of rubble/ choss on the ledge that should probably go. All of the blocks are of a good size and it'd be a shame if it came down on a belayer or climber hiking the main wall approach trail. Probably best to remove it when there is less traffic at the crag.